
Qass. 
Book. 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT 



^ 



^^^AR MEMORIES 



OF 



FOET MONROE AND YICINITY. 



Containing an Account of the Memorable 

Rattle Between the "^errimac" and 

"Monitor," the Incaf^cer^ation of 

JeFFEI^SON p. pAYIS, AND OtHER 

Topics of ]ntef\est poN- 

CERNING the -pOF^T AND 
f^EIGHBORHOOD. 



\ 



RY — 

H. K. W. PATTERSON, 

StRfiKANT Battery "A'' Thiri) Artillery. 



FOOI. k DEUSCHLE. 

publishers. 

Fort Monroe. Virgivia. 

188;;. 






Entered according to act of Oongre??, in the yenY 188"), }iy 11. K. W. Pat 
son, John M. Pool, and Gottlieb Deuschle, in the ofiice of the Lilirai 
of Congress, at Wasliington D* C-, April 1885. 






oi'^^ik^ 






u 



N T I C E TO ^r II E P U B L I C . 

: o : 

The information contained in this book concerning Hamp- 
ton, National Military Home, and The Hampton Normal and 
Agricultural Institute, etc., which we were kindly permitted 
io use by Mr. G. W. Belts, Manager of the Normal School 
Press, was taken from his "Visitors Hand Book of Old PoinI 
( lomfort and Vicinity," which is a co))yrighted work. 

Any publication of a similar character will be contested by 
hini under Hie copyright law. 

Patterson, Pool tV.- Deuschle, 

Publishers. 



To First Lieutenant Constantine (lliase. 3rd Artillery, toi- 
inerly Adjutant of the U. S. Artillery School, and under 
whose auspices our little work was commenced, this book 
is respectfully dedicated by 

The Author. 



P R E F A (' E . 

: o: 

In presenting this little work to the Public, the author has 
endeavored to give an answer to questions, which have been 
constantly asked by visitors to the Fort, concerning its extent, 
area, armament, and a hundred different points, which we 
have endeavored to elucidate. 

We are indebted to several sources for our information, to 
all of whom W(» are grateful, but we wish particularly to ex- 
pn^ss our appreciation of the valuable information concern- 
ing, The National Soldiers" Home, Hampton Normal 
and Agricultural Institute, and Hampton, gleaned from the 
Guide Book compiled by C. W. Betts, Esq., the gentlemanly 
and accommodating Manager of the Normal School Press. 
To him, and one other source, Lieut. Col. John H. Graven, U. 
S. A., the Medical attendant of Jefferson C. Davis, we would 
especially return thanks. 

We send this book forth to the public, and bespeak for it a 
generous patronage. Should we succeed in satisfying the 
want it is intended to supply, its author's object will have 
been accomplished. 

H. K. W. P. 



Frowning]}' from its buttressed walls on Chesapeake's bright crystal 'hay, 
O'er all its raiglity shadow cast, Monroe uplifts its granite form. 
Reposing calmly on the shore whose sand its moated waters lave, 
The stern epitome it seems of martial power and majesty. 

Marred though it is by time and tide, and age its weaknesses betrays, 
On its proud mien we gaze, and thought drifts backward for a score of year: 
'Neath cloudy sky and lowering tempest sounding Icnvlly ovoihead. 
Right gallantly our banner floated fi'oni its slatf nor o'er was lowerfd : 
Our country's safety guarded well at her hands suffered not a whit. 
Emblem majestic, firm it stands, of ]>owei a tiumg |u-oi.)iyp»i, 



CHAPTER 1 



" Roll on, thou deep and dark bluo Ocean — roll I 
Ten thousand fleets sweep over thee in vain ; 

Man marks the earth with ruin — hie control 
8top» with tht» Hhore; — upon the watery plain 
The wrecks are all thy deed, nor doth remain 

A shadow of man's ravaije, save his own, 

When for a moment, like a drop of rain, 

He sinks into thy depths with bubbling groan, 

Without ft grave, unknell'd uncoffin'd and unknown. " 

Approaches to Fort Monroe. 

There are none who can appreciate these magnificent lines 
of Lord Byron to their fullest extent, so well, as those who 
have viewed in its broad expanse, the subject of the apo^;- 
trophe of which our quotation is but a fragment. To thorough- 
ly grasp the sublimity of the subject which inspired the 
majestic strain of this King of Poets, one must see in all its 
grandeur, and view in its limitless extent, the object of his 
lofty praise, and his inimitably painted word-pictures. 

To gaze upon the ''illimitable waste of waters," and con- 
template Divinity through this most awe-inspiring and im- 
pressive of His Creations, conveys to the mind of the spectator 
a new meaning, and a truer appreciation of the majesty of 
Byron's conceptions, and the appropriateness with which he 
eulogizes this hoary-headed and crystal-crowned Monarch. 

Tossing upon the heaving swell of the miglity Atlantic, or 
gliding upon its placid bosom serenely, when devoid of storms 
it seems like a magnificent mirror, from which is reflected tho 
Almighty's face; viewing in untrammeled proportions its 
mighty domain, man's puny efforts seem inconceivably insig- 



nificant. There is no sight which impresses one more forcibly 
with a sense of his own littleness, as to be abroad on the 
•'rolling deep," and have naught to intercept his Hmit of vision 
save the "watery plain," and the boundless horizon. 

Sights which rivet the attention of the traveler, and excite 
his interest,' meet his eye as he is being swept northward by 
the Atlantic's restless tide. Many mighty estuaries, almost 
oceans in themselves, loom up before him, and impress him, 
first with their magnitude, and secondly with their importance 
commercially. 

The first which meets his eye, and impresses him with its 
magnificence, and importance as a mercantile highway, and 
the basins ol whose tremendous feeding streams take in a 
scope of territory unequalled in extent, and drain a country 
unsurpassed for beauty and variety of climate, temperture 
and productions, is the Gulf of Mexico. Its tropical-fringed 
shores luxuriating in a growth of vegetatioi!, and blooming 
with a variety and splendor of verdure, seen only under the 
burning suns and torrid skies of the Tropics, present a picture 
to the eye of the spectator, viewing it for the first time, never 
to be forgotten, and one which impresses him with a renewed 
sense of the extent and magnificence of our own beloved 
country, Here may be seen in all their beauty and perfection 
those rare and delicate fruits and exotics, which are such an 
important element in the festivity and ornamentation of more 
northern climes, and less favored localities, and which prov« 
such a rarity to those fortunate enough to possess them. 

The second arm of the Atlantic which presents itself to 
the view of the traveler, and swells with its mighty volume, its 
ever onward rolling tide, is the Chesapeake Bay. It is the 
largest on the eastern coast of the United States, being 200 
miles long, and from 4 to 40 broad This magnificent inland 
sea has to do, more intimately with our subject, and will, 



— 3- 

eventually, bring us to the objective point of our journey. 

Branching off from the Ocean, with a width at its mouth 
of 12 miles, it is difficult to tellwhere the one ends, and the 
other begins. Guarded at its mouth by two royal sentinels, 
Chesapeake's tide travels oceanward, and affords an outlet 
for both Maryland's and Virginia's manufacturing interests. 

On the North side is Gape Charles in Latitude 37° 3' North, 
and Longitude 76° 2' West; and on the South Cape Hem-y, 
in Latitude 36° 35' North, and Longitude 76° 4' West. Both 
these promontories are in Virginia. These two capes, named 
after the sons of King James, stand guard over one of the 
finest bays in the world, whose importance, commercially, 
can only be properly estimated by those indebted to it as a 
medium of traffic. 

Chesapeake Bay has numerous arms, which receive many 
navigable rivers, such as, the Susquehanna and the Patapsco 
on the north, through Maryland, and the James, on the south- 
west, from Virginia. The Potomac on the west, flowing 
between these two states, also empties its waters into the 
same reservoir. The country drained by these large tribu- 
taries, will ever remain prominent in American History, as 
having been the theatre of some of the most fiercely contested 
battles of the War of the Rebellion, and the Potomac river, 
especially, giving name to one of the strongest forces which 
the Federal Government had at its command, viz., the "Army 
of the Potomac," will always awaken interest in the breast 
of every one conversant with Columbia's history, and bring 
back to the minds of thousands of her sons, memaiies of the 
terrible ordeals through which she, as well as they, was com- 
pelled to pass. 

Entering the Chesapeake, and sailing northward on its 
placid bosom for a distance of 1 8 or 20 miles, we reach what 
is known as Hampton Roads, a name familiar to all mariners. 



— 4 — 

as being a synonym for rest and quiet, and a sure haven of peace 
and security. Here may be seen, when the "rude sons of 
Boreas" assert their wild dominion, and lash into mad fury 
tlie waters of the Atlantic till they seem like a boiling cauldron, 
scores of fishing smacks, white winged coasting schooners, 
and frequently, men-of-war, lying at anchor, and biding the 
time when the Storm King shall have been driven forth by 
gentle westerly breezes, whose milder domain shall again woo 
them forth, and tempt them on their voyage oceanward. 

It sets in westward from Chesapeake Bay, and its narrow 
entrance is guarded by Fort Monroe. Not far from the entrance 
it spreads out into an oval habor five miles in diameter. 
Here and there, is a shallow place, but almost every part is 
deep enough to float the largest vessel. The estuaries of two 
rivers enter the top of the habor from opposite directions; 
the James, from the northwest, and the Elizabeth, from the 
southeast. It lays between Hampton and Norfolk, Virginia, 
and forms the entrance to the James river. Its depth ranges 
from 5 to 7 fathoms. The Fort commanding the entrance to 
the Roads, is situated on a point of land on the north shore 
near its mouth. At the head of the estuary of the Elizabeth, 
8 miles from its opening, are Norfolk, on the east side, and 
Portsmouth, with Gosport, its suburb, on the west. At the 
latter point, there is a U. S. Navy Yard, 20 miles from the 
entrance of the Roads. 

The interest of these waters historically^ began early in the 
history of America, they having sheltered as early as 1608, 
Captain John Smith and a party of companions, from destruc- 
tion by tempest, while exploring'the shores of the Chesapeake^ 
vdio, after being exposed to the full fury of the blast, sought 
a convenient habor. York and James rivers were passed, 
but, owing to the storm, they could not make them. They 
finally came to the sandy tongue of land which projects into 



the entrance of the James river, which, having rounded, they 
found security and shelter. Out of gratitude for their dehver- 
ance, and most appropriately selecting a name for this locality, 
they called it Point Comfort. The adjective old, has since 
l)een added, to distinguish this harbor and vicinity, from one 
of a similar character higher up the bay, called New Point 
(lomfort. 

Coming down to a later period in our country's history, we 
again see this same peaceful harbor proudly giving anchorage 
and shelter to the French fleet, which proved such an inval- 
uable auxiliary to Washington's forces in the subjugation of 
Yorktown, and here also at a later period, in i8i3,the British 
tleet retired and found shelter, while in small boats their 
troops landed, and carried havoc and destruction into the quiet 
village of Hampton. Still further on in the anna's of our 
Nation, we see these same waters figuring prominently in the 
War which deluged our land with blood for four long years, 
from 1 861-1865. 

Here rendezvoused the fleet and transports accompanying 
the ''Burnside Expedition," which in a little over three months, 
succeeding, in conjunction with the land forces, in capturing 
and restoring to the Union from which they had been foully 
and ungratefully taken by the Confederate Government, all 
the important points on the coast of North Carolina. 

Thus it will be seen that these waters are classic in Ameri- 
can history. From the time they afforded protection to Captain 
John Smith, with his three ships in the seventeenth century. 
])efore the birth of the American Republic, until over 250 yeai-s 
later in 1861-65, witnessing the most fearful and stupendous 
warfare of modern times, it has been the theatre of many im- 
portant scenes ; in the latter struggle especially, owing to its 
proximity to our great Navy Yard at Norfolk. But, towering 
far above them all, the glorious light between the '^Monilor," 



on the Union side, and the "Merrimac" on the Confederate 
side, (the latter vessel having been re-baptized the ^'Virginia,'' 
by the Confederates), most commands our admiration, as being 
of the greatest importance, not only in the affairs of this country, 
but to the world at large. 

Previous to the recountal of the battle a brief account of the 
two vessels, their origin, inventors, and builders, will form a 
fitting prelude. 

The Confederate authorities early saw the necessity of float- 
ing batteries to defend their coasts, harbors, and inland waters. 
They could not hope to rival their enemy in the number of 
vessels. They must rely on the superiority of a few. To 
construct iron-clads required months of time, and a large a- 
mount of capital, neither of which the Confederate Government 
possessed. They had no means of building a hull or making 
an engine. But imbecility, treachery, and accident, gave them 
a hull and engine ready for use. 

In 1855, the United States built, at different navy yards, 
three powerful steam frigates, the '^Merrimac," the '*Roanoke," 
and the " Minnesota. " They were nearly all alike of about 
3500 tuns burden, carrying from forty to fifty guns. In April, 
1 861, the "Merrimac" was at the Norfolk Navy Yard, under- 
going repairs. When that place was abandoned, she was set 
on fire, scuttled and sunk. She was soon after raised by the 
Confederates, and a Committee was ordered to examine into 
her condition, and the use to which she might be put. They 
reported that her upper works were so much damaged that 
she could not be rebuilt without great expense and delay ; 
but the bottom part of the hull, the boilers, and heavy parts 
of the engine, were almost without injury, and that these 
could be adapted for a shot-proof steam battery more quickly 
and for one third of the sum, which it would cost to construct 
such a vessel anew. 



The plan was furnished by Brooks and Porter. The cen> 
Ual part of the hull for something more than half its length, 
was cut down to within three or four feet of the water-line to 
torm the gun-deck, and the hull was plated with iron to a 
depth of about six feet below the water-line. A casemate of 
novel construction was built on the gun-deck. Pine beams, 
a foot square and fifteen feet long, were placed side by side, 
like rafters, at an inclination of about 45 degrees. These 
[)rojeeted over the sides of the vessel like the eaves of a house, 
their ends dipping two feet below the water. Upon these 
heams were placed two layers of oak planks four inches thick : 
one layer horizontal, and the other vertical. This was first 
overlaid with ordinary flat bars of iron four and a half inches 
thick. Experiments showed that this thickness of iron was 
inadequate, and a layer of railroad iron was added. This 
casemate did not come to a point, like the roof of a house, 
hut there was a flat space on the top, rendered bomb-proof 
by plates of wrought iron. From this roof projected a short 
smoke-stack. 

The armament consisted of eight i i-inch guns, four on each 
side, and a 100-pound rifled Armstrong gun at each end. 
The ends of the vessel were cut down still lower, so as to be 
two feet below water. A light bulwark, or false bow, of 
wood was built. This served the two-fold purpose of pre- 
venting the water from banking up against the case-mate 
when the vessel was in motion, and of a tank to diminish 
the draft. To this craft was given the name of the " Virginia. " 
The draft of the "Merrimac'' had been about twenty-three 
feet, and her speed was fourteen or fifteen miles an hour, 
after her conversion into an iron clad, she drew twenty-five 
feet of water, and her speed was reduced to seven knots and 
a- half. 



— 8 — 

Some time elapsed before the Federal Government perceived 
ttie absolute necessity of iron clad vessels. Experiments had been 
made by the Stevens' Brothers of New Jersey, in the construc- 
tion of an iron battery upon an original plan, and Congress, at 
length, on the 3rd of August, 1862, appropriated ^1,500,000 
for the building of iron-clads. The proposals were sent out, 
and the Commission reported in favor of three different vessels. 
The " Ironsides '' by Merrick and Sons of Philadelphia, a re- 
gular man-of-war, 20 guns, and covered with 4^ inches of 
solid plate. The " Galena " by C.S. Bushnell, of New Haven, 
a steamer, brigantine rigged, 1 8 guns, plated with from 2 to 4 
inches of thin roiled iron. The third was an anomxaly in 
naval architecture, with John Ericsson of New York for its in- 
ventor. 

"John Ericsson was born in the Province of Vermland, in 
Sweden, on July 31st, 1803. He was a Swedish Engineer of 
prominence. He received several titles and dignities both in 
this country and in Europe, receiving the distinction ofL.L. D. 
from an American University. 

He came to America in 1839, landing at New York, Nov. 
23rd. Some time previous to 1854, he had been revolving 
in his mind the idea of an iron-plated shot-proof ship of war. 
On September 26th 1854, plans and specifications of the 
"Monitor,'' as she afterwards appeared, were sent from New 
York to the Emperor Napoleon III, thus giving him an op- 
portunity of monoplizing for the French Nation in the Crimean 
War, this new departure in naval warfare. The Emperor at 
once acknowleded Ericsson's letter, but, fortunately for America 
the offer was not accepted, and the ''Monitor" was first 
used for the protection of his adopted country. 

Following will be found a copy of a letter explaining why 
Ericsson called his ship the "Monitor." 



(Copy) 

New York, January 2otb, 1862. 

Sir : — 

In accordance witli^your request, I now submit for your 
approbation a name for the the floating battery at Green 
Point. 

Tlie impregnable and aggressive character of this structure 
will admonisli the leaders of the Southern Rebellion that the 
batteries on the banks of their rivers will no longer present 
barriers to the entrance of the Union forces. 

The iron-clad intruder will thus prove a severe monitor to 
those leaders. But there are other leaders who will also be 
startled and admonished by the booming of the guns from the 
impregnable iron turret. '* Downing Street " will hardly view 
with indifference this last " Yankee notion, " this monitor. To 
tli(^ Lords of Admiralty the new craft will be a monitor, sug- 
gesting doubts as to the propriety of completing those four 
steel-clad vessels at three-and-a-half millions apiece. 

On these and many similar grounds I propose to name the 
new battery ''Monitor." 

Your obedient servant, 

J. Errigssox. 

To Gustavus V. Fox, 

Assistant Secretary of the Navy : 



Having thus given a preliminary look at the inventor, we 
will now look at the ship itself. 

Her dimensions were as follows : = Extreme length 172 
feet, this included her armor, and also that part which ex- 
tended beyond the hull proper. The length of thi^ hull 
proper was 1 24 feet ; Her total beam 41 }^ feet, including- over 

3- 



— lO — 

armor and backing; beams of her hull proper 34 feet; her depth 
II feet; draught 10 feet; her total weight with everything 
on board was 900 tons ; the diameter of her turret inside was 
20 feet ; its height 9 feet ; its thicknes^ 8 inches ; the vessel's 
armor, 5 inches of iron and 5 feet of oak. 

Her shape wasthatofhalf of an egg-shell, slightly flattened at 
the bottom. Five feet below the top there was an iron shelf 
projecting nearly four feet from the sides. This was filled 
with oaken blocks, over which were bolted five series of iron 
plate? each an inch thick. This armor shelf or platform pro- 
jected 16 feet at the stern, in order to cover the rudder, and 
propeller, and ten feet at the bow to protect the anchor. Her 
armament consisted of two 11 -inch guns. 

The principal feature of the " Monitor, " of course, was her 
revolving turret. It was constructed of plates of iron an inch 
thick, three feet wide, and nine feet in length. Eight of these 
plates constituted its thickness. It was thus nine feet high 
and eight inches thick, with a diameter of twenty feet. 
The two port-holes were of an oval shape just large enough 
to allow the guns to be elevated to secure the proper range. 
It was made to revolve upon a central shaft by means of a 
separate engine. Therefore when she presented herself her 
deck vv^as a smooth surface, broken only by the huge round 
turret, and a low square pilx)t-house near the bow. 

It is not much of a matter of wonderment that she should be 
termed a "cheese-box," by her confederate opponents. Her 
propelling power was in her stern. 

A few weeks later than the time of her completion was to 
be fought a naval battle not only between the first iron-clads, 
but the first between screw-propelled ships. 

By a singular coincidence both the "Merrimac" and the 
" Monitor " were finished on the 5th of March, 1862. On the 
4th of March, Lieut. Commander John L. Worden, received 



— II — 

orders to proceed with his vessel to Hampton Roads, and report 
to the senior Naval Officer there. This in perfect ignorance of 
the mighty results to follow. The " Monitor " left the Lower 
Bay of New York on the afternoon of the 6th of March, 1 862, 
passing Cape Henry light-house March 8th, 1862. This day, 
one of the saddest of the Rebellion, had witnessed the de- 
truction of the U. S. ships "Cumberland" and "Congress,'' 
by the rebel ram " Merrimac. " For weeks previous to her 
arrival conflicting reports had reached Fort Monroe, and 
vicinity, of the intentions and movement of this dreaded mon- 
ster. All were on the qui vive^ anticipating her arrival, but 
dreading the consequences. 

At noon on Saturday March the 8th, the "Merrimac" 
rounded SewelFs Point, standing up towards Newport News. 
She was attended by the "Frazer" and "Yorktown, " two 
small steamers armed with rifled guns. She was commanded 
by Franklin Buchanan, who had entered the United States 
Navy thirty-five years before. He stood high on the roll 
having attained the rank of Captain. He was commander of 
the Navy Yard at Washington when the^war broke out. He, 
resigned his commission, and entered heart and hand into the 
Confederate service. Having been born in Maryland, he 
could not even plead having followed his native state in tak- 
ing up arms against his country. This was the trial trip of 
the " Merrimac, " and what throws around this contest such 
an extraordinary interest, is the fact that the armament and 
style of both ships were entirely new, and the battle was 
naught but a test of the powers of the two antagonists. The 
"Congress" and "Cumberland" were anchored off Newport 
News, about a quarter of a mile apart, and about the sairws 
distance from shore, the rest of the fleet were lying near Fort 
Monroe, six miles distant. As soon as the "Merrimac" came 
within range of the "Congress," she opened fire upon her 



— 12 — 

with her lOO-pound bow gun. The heartlessness and cruelty 
of this warfare can be sHghtly estimated when it is taken into 
consideration that the favorite brother of Captain Buchanan 
was purser on board of the "Congress," and when he gave 
the order to fire, he knew he was aiming his missiles against his 
brother's life. The attack was made at dead slack water, the 
commander of the " Merrimac " knowing that his two oppo- 
nents being sailing ships could not use springs on their cables 
.at that time to present their broadsides to the enemy. The 
''Congress" answered the attack of her powerful antagonist 
Avith a whole broadside from eleven 9-inch Dahlgrens. They 
rebounded from her iron sides, inflicting no more damage, 
than if they had been pebbles . The "Merrimac " seemed to 
be anxious to test her defenses, and they justified the behef 
in her impregnability. Six broadsides were delivered without 
any essential damage. She kept straight on until her bow 
pointed straight at the "Cumberland." This was at three 
o'clock in the afternoon. 

The huge monster opened fire upon the ill-fated vessel, 
at the same time striking her with her iron beak at a terrific 
momentum, below the water-line, making a ragged opening 
large enough to admit the body of a man. The " Merrimac " 
then opened fire. Broadside after broadside was delivered 
in rapid succession, each shot reaching a vital part. Some 
idea of the destructiveness of the fire may be imagined from 
the fact that the first shot killed and wounded ten men at the 
after pivot gun. The second shot killed and wounded twelve 
men at the forward pivot gun. The following statement 
made by an officer on board the " Cumberland," and taken 
from "The First Monitor," a paper read before the Buffalo 
Historical Society by Eben P. Dorr, gives a graphic acccunt 
of the heart-rending scenes happening in connection with this 
terrible conflict. 



— 13 — 

Just after the ramming of the "Cumberland" he says: — ''I 
was looking throrgh the air port of the sick bay, at the time 
and had a full view of the '' Merrimac. " She was like a large 
iron shed sunk down to the roof, with a gun put in the gable. 
The shock was tremendous. I heard the stones rattling in the 
gunner's room underneath, and some of the bolts in the 
hanging knees were driven in, and the water spouted in, in 
a full stream. Part of the wounded had been brought down 
and v.ere partially dressed, when a percussion shell came 
through the spar deck hatch, bursting in the sick bay imme- 
diately under the spar deck, killing four ofthe w^ounded men. 
By this time the ship was settling by the head, and we moved 
to the steerage. It was necessary to lift the wounded, brought 
down to the berth deck, on to the big racks and mess-chests, 
to save them from drowning in the water which was flow- 
ing in very fast. 

"All this time, the three rebel ships continued to fire on 
us, and it was returned as warmly. Trunks of cartridges were 
hoisted on the gun deck and opened, the guns' crews kicked 
off their shoes stripped to their pants, their heads tied up 
with their black neck handkerchiefs, loaded, fired, yelled, 
and dragged the killed and wounded, amidships. There was 
no time for form or to send them below. 

" In forty-five minutes from the time she was struck, the 
order was given to leave quarters and save themselves as best 
they could. The ship in sinking keeled over. The ladders 
were almost perpendicular. The crash was fearful. As there 
is often in the gravest scenes a corner for the ludicrous, so 
there was in this. The marine drummer holding on to his 
drum, the men pushing him up from below, landing him on 
deck with it, caused a laugh at his expense, desperately as 
we were situated. 

"When the spar deck was reached, it inclined liki' the roof 



— 14 — 

of a house. The boats previous to the action, had all been 
lowered and made fast in a line on the shore side. Every 
one took to the water and swam for the boats. While hesi- 
tating at the after pivot port, a man next to me said, 'Jump ! 
here comes the pivot gun !' It had been pivoted on the upper 
side, and breaking away rushed dow^n in the water catching, 
as it went, Quartermaster Murray, a young, active, un wounded 
man. He fell, and the gun bounded on his back, like some 
fierce animal, breaking his spine. His face rose with an un- 
utterable look of agony, which once seen, could never be 
forgotten. 

The ship sunk to her tops, in which many of the men took 
refuge. As the boats made for the shore, the enemy contin- 
ued to shell us, but we were below in the water, so that the 
shell went over us. One of them knocked to pieces the end 
of the wharf we were making for. (This is what is now 
known as the Baltimore Wharf, at Fort Monroe.) On land- 
ing, the soldiers met us in crowds ; they hugged and embraced 
us, and whiskey flasks were held to our mouths, plugs of 
tobacco shoved into our pockets, and they cried and cheered 
and cursed; and we were clothed and comforted by them. 

"The ''Cumberland" lost one hundred and seventeen out 
of three hundred. Fourteen of the wounded were saved. 
When the order was given to leave the ships, the wounded 
men, most of them mangled by shell, begged to be killed rather 
than be left to drown, and the yell of agony as she sank was 
heard in the camp of the troops on shore. But she simk vnth 
her colors flying ! The last gun was fired by a volunteer of- 
ficer. Lieutenant Randall, now in the naval service. Lieut. 
Morris was hailed by Captain Buchanan of the " Merrimac, " 
'Do you surrender?' He answered, 'No, sir!' 

"The slaughter was terrible among the marines. They 
were commanded by Lieutenant Hey wood, a gallant man. 



— 15 — 

There were many interesting scenes on board. A man dread- 
fully, hopelessly wounded, had been carried down to the 
cock-pit. While therein, his ^chummy,' or friend, with a 
wounded hand only, came to have it dressed, intending to 
return. The wounded man said, 'Tom, are you going to leave 
me?' Tom said, 'No, I will not!' and sat down on deck, took 
his friend's head in his lap, and went down with him. The 
cock-pit sentry also went down at his post. 

"Leaving the "Cumberland," the ram went for the "Con- 
gress. '' She was aground and helpless. Hot shot were 
fired into her, and she was soon on fire. Full of wounded 
men, Lieutenant Smith killed, the ship on fire, the colors were 
hauled down at four o'clock. " 

The father of the commander of the " Congress " was watch- 
ing the battle from the ramparts of Fort Monroe ; he had been 
looking through his glass, and when, for a moment, he turned 
away, and some one else took the glass, and cried out hastily, 
''The " Congress " has struck her colors ! " " Then, " said he, 
••Joe is dead!" This showed the unbounded confidence felt 
in him by his father. To resume the thread of our story. 

"A small tender from the " Merrimac, " went between the 
" Congress" and the shore, but the Zouaves under Colonel 
Loziei- with their rifles picked otf the men in the tug, and she 
left without making a prisoner or securing the flag of the " Con- 
gress : " and then, to the surprise of every one, the " Merrimac " 
steamed back for Norfolk. She had left her ram in the '' Cum- 
berland, " and was leaking badly. All the wounded of the 
'' Congress " were taken ashore, and at 12:30 she blew up, 
the fire having reached her magazines. 

An old man, Russel, aged sixty, stationed in the after mag- 
azine of the " Cumberland, " went down with the ship, made 
his way up through the hatches, to the surface and was hauled 
into the mizzentop, the only one out of water. The weight 



— i6 — 

rushing forward kept her head lower than the stern, entirely 
submerging her fore and main tops. As soon as Radford heard 
the firing he attempted to reach us; but the "Roanoke" was 
repairing her machinery, the "Minnesota" aground, and as 
we landed at Newport News, he rode down to the beach on 
a horse without saddle or bridle, merely a halter. He was 
ragged and muddy from falls, haggard with anxiety and re- 
gret ; but brightened up when he was pointed to the flag still 
flying from his ship. He was noted for complete control ot 
himself, but he cried like a child when contemplating the sad 
scene before him. A kinder and braver Captain never com- 
manded a ship, and though he regretted his own absence, he 
approved the acts of the gallant Morris, his officers and crew, 
by saying: 'It could not have been done better.' For 
weeks [ifter the battle, the flag of the "Cumberland" waved 
above her wreck, a sad, but glorious memorial of the match- 
less prowess and martyrdom of her crew. Thus ends the 
account of an eye-witness of one of the most memorable 
conflicts of the war. The sad fate of the " Cumberland " and 
" Congress " has since become the subject of song and story. 
The pages of history fail to record a more desperate or more 
gloriously contested struggle, in the annals of war. 

And now, with the " Cumberland " sunk in the depths of 
the waters she had so gallantly tried to defend, and the wreck 
of the " Congress " a prey to the flames, the " Merrimac "turned 
her attention to the remainder of the Union fleet, and essayed 
to visit upon them the same fate as she had inflicted upon 
their unfortunate companions. The " Minnesota, " which 
in endeavoring to go to the rescue of the "Congress" and 
"Cumberland" had run aground at Sewell's Point, seemed 
to offer an easy A^ctory. The "Roanoke " and the " St. Law- 
rence," also met with the same fate. 

The greater draught of the " Merrimac " prevented her 



— 17 — 

from approaching nearer than a mile to the " Minnesota '' She 
opened fire upon this vessel, but only one shot' was effective. 
This ineffectual contest was carried on for about two hours. 
The two smaller antagonists attending the "Merrimac" were 
soon silenced by the Dahlgren howitzers of the Federal gun- 
boats, and the "Goliah" of the fleet unable to consummate 
her vicious intentions, steamed back with her consort to the 
protection of the batteries at the mouth of the Elizabeth. Thus 
ended a sad day for the anxious hearts at Old Point. All a- 
waited with dread foreboding the rising of the morrow's sun. 
This was the situation on Saturday night when the "Monitor" 
arrived at Hampton Roads, having left New York Bay two 
days before. Some time previous to her arrival in the Roads, 
the sound of the sanguinary conflict had reached her, and shells 
were seen to burst in the air. The disappointed officers on 
board the " Monitor " were sadly chagrined, supposing the 
report to proceed from an attack on Norfolk, for which they 
had arrived too late. They urged their ship on as rapidly as 
possible, and a pilot was taken on board, who, terror-stricken 
with the frightful message he carried, told the receding day's 
doings in Hampton Roads. I [e received orders to put the " Mon- 
itor" in the neighborhood of the "Merrimac. " This gave him 
such a fright that when he came to where his boat was anchored 
he quickly got aboard of her and disappeared. She however 
anchored alongside of the "Minnesota" a little after midnight. 
They anxiously awaited the dawning of the 9th of March. 
At about 8 o'clock in the morning the "Merrimac" was seen 
slowly approaching the scene of her former day's triumph. 
At about the same time from the deck of the "Merrimac" 
the " Confederate outlook " reported a steam-tug playing round 
the " Minnesota. " Then as the "Monitor" shot out from 
the lee of the "Minnesota" the news travelled along the 
deck like wild-fire : "Ericsson's Battery has arrived. The 

4 



— i8 — 

Monitor has come. " The pigmy size of the "Monitor, "oc- 
casioned a great laugh on board the "Merrimac. " They 
seemed disposed to treat her with contempt, and looking at 
the respective dimensions of the two vessels there seemed, 
reason for it. They had been looking for her for days. 

The two antagonists slowly approached each other. When 
the " Merrimac" came within sight her smoke-stack was dis- 
covered to have been greased with tallow to assist in glancing 
the shots. As the " Monitor " came alongside of her mighty 
foe, she opened upon her, receiving in return broad-side after 
broad-side, of those death-dealing missiles, which had carried 
such death and desolation on board of her victims the day 
before, but she saw them glide from the sides of the '• Monitor, " 
like grains of sand. Then the word was passed " the Yankee 
cheese-box is made of iron. " In the previous day's contest 
the " Merrimac, " having lost her beak from failing to reverse 
her engines in time she had leaked slightly. When she had 
retired the preceding day, she calked up the leak as best she 
might, and tacked over it three or four thicknesses of canvass. 
Every shot fired by the " Monitor, " was followed by the vessel 
herself, and she would drive with all the force she was able 
to summon from her engines, full against the "Merrimac, " 
increasing the leak, and stripping off the iron plating from her 
sides with every shot. Each collision was followed by the 
speedy gliding of the " Monitor" in front other foe, she being, 
from her smaller size, much more easily manipulated. It 
was the intention of Lieutenant Word en, if possible, to injure 
the propeller of the " Merrimac, " but she missed it by a few 
feet. 

The vessels, during the contest, were but a short distance 
from each other, many times their iron casings coming in con- 
tact. Broadside after broadside was dehvered at this incredible 
short range, but the revolving turret receiving the shots at a very 



— 19 — 

acute angle was simply dented. Then from the mouths of the 
death-dealing Dahlgren's (to ordinary ships) would belch forth 
their terrible response, and send thundering against the sides of 
her formidable adversary, the full fury of their vengeance. The 
armament of the "Merrimac " was extremely powerful, for 
the days in which it was manufactured, but often they sent 
their missiles only to have them broken after striking and 
collected as trophies from the deck of the " Monitor". This 
being little more than a test of the capabilities of the two 
vessels, their armament never having been tried, and their 
crews being so excited and so little used to their weapons, the 
guns in fhe first part of the contest were too highly elevated, 
and many of the projectiles were wasted in the air ; but later 
in the fight the mistake was discovered, and the guns lowered, 
and then it was that shots from the Monitor's guns, hitting 
the junction formed by the meeting of the casemate and the 
side of the ship, caused a leak in the " Merrimac. '' In the 
early part of the contest, considerable anxiety was felt by 
Lieutenant Worden, as to the workings of the turret, it having 
been predicted that a shot striking it with great initial velocity, 
would so derange it as to interfere with its effective working, 
but having been twice struck, his confidence in his little giant, 
was thoroughly restored, and he renewed the contest with a 
great deal of zeal. 

Captain Buchanan having been wounded, the command of the 
"Merrimac, " devolved upon Captain Jones, who, remember- 
ing the terrible execution effected by her beak the day l^efore, 
steers her directly against the "Monitor" with the same in- 
tention, but he " reckoned without his host, " for, by a clever 
shift of the helm at the critical moment, giving a broad sheer 
with her bow towards the enemy's stern, by this means a- 
voiding a direct blow, and receiving it at a very acute angle 



— 20 — 



on the starboard quarter, it glanced off, inflicting little or no 
injury to the "Monitor." 

The contest continued for about four hours, with the excep- 
tion of an interval of fifteen minutes, when the "Monitor" 
hauled off to remedy some deficiency in the supply of shots 
in the turret, until near noon, when, being within ten yards 
of the enemy a shell from the "Merrimac" struck her pilot 
house, near the look-out hole, through which Lieut. Worden 
was looking. He and his Quartermaster were both looking at 
the time, through a slight aperture or "conning-hole, " con- 
sisting of a slit between the bars, and the Quartermaster 
seeing the " Merrimac's " gunners sighting their gun on the 
the pilot-house, dropping his head at the same time gave a 
warning cry. But simultaneously with his warning the shell 
struck the opening. It exploded, fracturing one of the iron 
logs of which it was composed, filling Lieut. Worden's face 
and eyes with powder, utterly blinding and partially stunning 
him. His escape from death was marvellous. The top of the 
pilot-house was partially lifted off by the force of the concus- 
sion, which let in a flood of hght so strong as to be apparent 
to Worden, blind as he was, and caused him to believe that 
the pilot-house was seriously disabled. He gave orders that 
Lieut. Greene should be sent for, and told him to take com- 
mand. When Worden retired word was brought to him that 
the "Merrimac" was retiring tc Norfolk. It is interesting to 
note that the steward of the "Merrimac," J. B. Jones is at 
present Light-House Keeper on the Point. 

About the same time the "Monitor's " turret was struck, a 
shot from her had pierced the "Merrimac " near the water 
line, and caused a leak, and the mighty monster, despairing 
of overcoming her antagonist steered to Norfolk. 

Thus ends the account of the most remarkable naval con- 
flict of modern times, first because, both armament and vessels 



— 21 



were untried, secondly the contest was between iron-clads. 
and the first also between screw-propellers. The end of both 
vessels was violent, the '' Merrimac '' being destroyed by the 
Confederates a little over a month after the battle, May i ith 
1862, they being unable to take her up James River, and the 
^'Monitor" being lost off Gape Hatteras, eleven mouths from 
the time she was launched. 

Owing to the heavy armament of both vessels, it was wond- 
ered why the conflict was not more quickly settled. Mr. 
Newton the Chief Engineer of the '' Monitor, " when question- 
ed by the War Committee on the subject thus answered: — 
^'It was due to the fact that the power and endurance of the 
II -inch Dahlgren gun, with which the Monitor was armed 
were not known at the time ot the battle ; hence the com- 
mander would hardly have been justified in increasing the 
charge of powder above that authorized in the Ordnance 
Manual. Subsequent experiments developed the important 
fact that these guns could be fired with thirty pounds of can- 
non powder, with solid shot. If this had been known at the 
time of the action, I am clearly of the opinion, that, ti'om the 
close quarters at which Lieutenant Worden fought his vessel, 
the enemy would have been forced to surrender. It will of 
course, be admitted by every one, that if but a single 15-inch 
gun could possibly have been mounted within the turret (it was 
planned to carry the heaviest ordnance), the action would have 
been as short and decisive as the combat between the monitor 
Weehawken, Captain John Rodgers, and the rebel iron-clad 
'' Atlanta, " which, in several respects was superior to the 
'' Merrimac. " He added, that, as it was, but for the injury 
received by Lieutenant Worden, that vigorous officer would 
very likely have " badgered " the " Merrimac " to a surrender. 
Soon the news was enthusiastically flashed along the tele- 
graph wires, and the enthusiasm was as great as had been 



the depression, the day before. Thanks and laudations froui 
all quarters were poured in upon the " Monitor, '' Ericsson, 
her inventor, Worden, her commander, Green, her executive 
officer, Newton her Chief Engineer, Stimers the Engineer 
detailed to accompany and report on her, and who woi^ked 
the turret, all the officers in short and all the crew shared 
the honors. All the dignitaries of the Nation from the Presi- 
dent down, diplomatic corps. Officers of both services, and 
ladies by scores, came in crowds, to see this new engine of 
warfare and view^the site of the memorable conflict in Hamp- 
ton Roads. The President having convened a Cabinet meet- 
ing, heard accidentally that Lieutenant Worden was in the 
city. He immediately dissolved the meeting and went to the 
Hotel to see him. Worden lay on the sofa blindfolded, and 
when Mr. Lincoln came into the parlor, he wrung his hand while 
the tears coursed rapidly down his cheeks. Mr. Lincoln said, 
'' Lieutenant Worden I am honored. " To which Worden 
I'eplied " No, it is I who am honored. " 

Havino: thus far conducted our readers we will next dis- 
cuss the surroundings of Fort Monroe. 



CHAPTER II, 



Bieatliiugof tho mystic Past, 
Whose mem'ries prej;iiant with Renown, 
Carry us backwani to the scenes. 
Which make om- Country's history ; 
Monroe's surroundiugs big with Fame, 
Spealv from the shades of other yearn, 
Aud tell us stories, wluch command 
From all, respect and reverence. 

Surroundings of Fort Monroe. 

Having entered the Roads, the first object which meets tlu 
eye of the observer and looms up prominently before him. 
is an unfinished fortification, called the '' Rip-Raps. '' The 
signification of the term, and its appUcability, may not be fam- 
iliar, and is, therefore, deemed worthy of explanation. The 
term " rip-rap " is a technicality, which literally signifies. 
" rough stone-work, " and is applied in the present instance, 
first, from the manner in which the foundation of the Fort 
was made, and, secondly, because the stones of which the 
walls are formed, are termed, " roughly dressed " stone. 

This structure was begun sometime about the year 1821. 
and the foundation was made, by throwing upon the sand- 
l)ar, upon which it rests, thousands of tons of stone, brought 
principally from Maine, some from Port Deposit, near Phila- 
delphia, and several other places, until a groundwork of suf- 
ficient strength was obtained, upon which the present fortifi- 
cation was built. 

Some idea of the magnitude of the work may be formed, 
when it is noted, that the w^ork of forming this (bundation. 
was an undertaking of twenty years duration. Work upon 
the walls was commenced about the year 1861, but pnnMous 



— 24 — 

to its inauguration, a weight of stones, exceeding by far the 
weight of the anticipated fortification, was placed upon the foun- 
dation to settle it firmly in its place, and thus prevent, a sinking 
of the structure, after its completion. The idea which popular- 
ly prevails upon the Point and its vicinity, that this place was 
abandoned on account of a continued sinking, is, therefore 
erroneous„ The reason why its completion was postponed, 
was owing to the fact, that the Engineer having the work in 
charge found that the improved Ordnance of modern warfare, 
would speedily reduce it, and, therefore, its practical utility, 
if finished in consistency with the plans and specifications, 
was to be doubted. The same authority, however, maintains 
it as his opinion, that if the space between the foundation a- 
bove water level, and the walls proper, was filled up with 
banks of sand, and armament placed upon it, as it now stands, 
in six months, it could be made impregnable. The work of 
construction was carried on for about six years, until 1867, 
when it ceased, and has not since been renewed. 

The name of the Fort was originally. Fort Calhoun, but at 
the breaking out of the War of the Rebellion, owing to the 
view^s sustained by Governor John C. Calhoun, of South Car- 
olina, after whom it was called, and, also, because he Avas the 
father of the "Repudiation " doctrine, it was changed to '' Fort 
Wool, '' in honor of General Wool, whose war record was 
very creditable, and who at the time, was commanding the 
Department, embracing the same within its limits. The name 
'' Rip-Raps, " is, however, more generally applied to it. than 
any other. During the War the houses now to be found up- 
on it, were used as a prison for militaiy convicts, who were 
sent to assist in the erection of " Monroe. "" Fort Wool was 
also used as a place of incarceration for rebel prisoners, during 
the War, and from its walls one was hung as a spy during 
the Rebellion. 



— 25 

Having viewed this curiosity until satisfied, we will next 
land on the Point at the Baltimore Wharf, as it is called, on ac- 
count of its being more largely used by the Baltimore line of 
Steamers, than any other ; it was built, because the "Light 
House Wharf, " as it is generally termed, was not large enough 
to accommodate the shipping of freight and stores to the Point 
which was particulariy great during the AVar. Since its first 
erection, additions have been made to it, until it has assumed 
its present proportions. 

Having fairiy landed, we are welcomed by the urbane and 
gentlemanly proprietor of the Hygeia Hotel, the pride of the 
Point, whose massive form rears itself immediately in front 
of us. In 1863, the present mammoth building was of very 
small dimensions, and was owned by a firm named Clark and 
Wilson, from whom it was procured by its present proprietor, 
Harrison Phoebus Esq. From its humble commencement, it 
has gradually improved, in appearance and size, until, at the 
present time, it stands one of the principal summer resorts on 
the Atlantic sea-board. 

It is situated one hundred yards from Fort Monroe, at the 
confluence of Chesapeake Bay and Hampton Roads, about 
1 80 miles south from Baltimore, and 1 5 miles north of Norfolk 
and Portsmouth. 

The place is reached by the splendid steamers of the Bay 
Line, Potomac and James River Companies, running daily be- 
tween Baltimore, Washington, Richmond and Norfolk, and 
by rail direct from Richmond via Chesapeake and Ohio Rail- 
way. These means of transit, to and fro, render the Point 
easy of access, and conduce to its popularity. 

The Hotel is four stories in height, substantially built, and 
comfortably furnished ; as a resort for the pleasure seeker, in- 
valid, or resting place for tourists on their way to Florida or 
the North, this place is unsurpassed as a seaside resort. 

5 



— 26 — 

Wending our way slowly along the Beach, or promenading 
the corridors of the Hotel, we notice the Light House, which 
stands prominently in view, in front of us. This Light built 
in 1834, shines out upon Chesapeake's gloomy waters, when 
storm-cloud, and temptest-shadow darken their crystal beauty 
and warn the storm-tossed mariner of the presence of danger. 
We also see, in its vicinity, the abutments standing, upon 
which was built a Wharf, which was used for passenger and 
freight traffic, until the more ample and convenient accom- 
modations of the Baltimore Wharf superseded it. This Wharf, 
built in 1 862 and enlarged in 1 864, was first constructed on 
account of the Goods landing on the "Light House Wharf, " 
having to be transported by labored pulling up a tough sandy 
Beach, and, also, on account of its small size, it was unable 
to accommodate the large amount of traffic carried on. It 
was built in 1882, and has since been used for the landing 
and shipping of heavy Ordnance. 

Retracing our steps, until we again stand upon the Point, 
we see the Quartermaster's residence, opposite the Hotel, built 
in 1865, and a twin structure of the Hotel, of which it was a 
fac-simile. Next we have Adams Express Office built in 1873, 
aud the large and accommodating establishment of William H. 
Kimberly, built in 1 868. Opposite this store, and on the same 
side of the road, we next see confronting us, what is familiar- 
ly known as the " Gun-yard. " 

Embracing within its limits an area of about half an acre, 
it is surrounded on all sides by an iron fence, which, on first 
sight, presents to the eye a peculiar appearance, but, upon a 
closer observation, the barrels and bayonets of old-time musk- 
ets, are found to form its structure. The idea popularly pre- 
vailing on the Point, that these were trophies conquered from 
the Confederates during the late AVar, is an erroneous one. 
They are arms which were rendered useless in the fire at the 



Washington Arsenal, in 1866, and were sent to the Point, to 
be put under the trip-hammer, and assist in the manufacture 
of other munitions of war. But the authorities having the 
matter in charge, conceived the idea of a different use for them, 
and they were placed in their present position. 

They form an appropriate enclosure to contain the relics 
of Revolutionary times, to be found just inside the gates, which 
were conquered from the British at the battle of Yorktown 
in 1781 ; both six and twelve pounders, the former ot which 
is now obsolete, so far as its use is concerned, in modern war- 
fare ; and other specimens of War's dread array. 

Twenty odd years ago, the ground covered by the Yard's 
present dimensions, was more than one third ruled over and 
submerged beneath the waters of Chesapeake Bay. A wharf 
ran from where the Baltimore Wharf now stands, clear round 
the beach, to the site now occupied by the black-smith Shop 
of the Quartermaster's Department, and Engineer Boat-house. 

The washing of the tide, filling the interstices between the 
piles forming the foundation of this structure, with sand, caused 
in time a formation of new ground, compact and solid, upon 
which the present building now stands. 

On the opposite side, on the corner, stands the store of Jas. 
D. Watkins, built in 1863 ; next we come to the Book Store, 
William Baulch, Post Trader, proprietor ; back of which on 
the same ground stands the house now occupied by the widow 
of Gen'l. De Russy. This building has quite a history. Built 
in 1 8 1 7, it was at first a Government Stable ; then when 
the construction of the Fort commenced, large numbers 
of slaves and military prisoners employed on the works, re- 
quired a place of confinement and this house was then turned 
into a prison for their incarceration. About 1842 it was 
turned into a dwelling-house, since which time it has so re- 
mained. 



— 28 — 

Wending our way slowly along, we see on our right the 
Office of the Engineering Department, and Fort Monroe Post 
Office. In the extent of the ground occupied by it, and the 
other buildings surrounding it, was a Hotel of small dimensions, 
which during the Rebellion, was turned into a Hospital by 
General Benj, F. Butler, and afterwards removed by order of 
the Secretary of War. 

St. Mary's Catholic Church, the cornor-stone of which was 
laid in 1848, Rev. Thomas Murray Pastor, in which Divine 
Services are held every Sunday morning at 10:30 A. M., and 
Vespers at 4:30 P. M., in Summer and 7:30 P. M. in Winter, 
and the only church of any denomination, on the Point, out- 
side the walls of the Fort, next meets the eye of the observer; 
adjoining which, are two stables, which were used as places 
of residence for the citizens employed in the Fort. Above 
these are seen a row of frame buildings erected by the Ord- 
nance Department, about 1838, and used as places of residence. 
On the right of the road stands a large brick building known 
as the " Machine Shop," which, during the War, employed 
between 400 and 500 men ; this building was erected about 
i860 and was used for the manufacture of rifled Cannon, ax- 
les for heavy sling-carts, and various other utensils of war. 

The other buildings on the Point, were principally erected 
in i860 and 1861, and were used for the purposes to which 
they are now devoted, with the exception of the Quarters of 
the Ordnance Department, adjoining the Machine Shop, and 
the residence and Office of its Commandant, Major L. S. Bab- 
bitt, which are of recent date. 

Between the Point and Mill Creek Bridge, lying about a 
mile distant, were houses, shops, and storehouses, which have 
since been removed, and the ground devoted to other purposes. 
On the bridge just referred to is a Picket Guard-house, where 
the ''sentry walks his lonely round," and keeps watch over 



— 29- 

Goveriiment property and the Reservation, which extends 
about twenty feet the other side of the Greek. 

Traversing the Shell-Road which stretches before us, we 
see looming in the distance, the town of Hampton, situated 
three miles from Old Point. As early as 1608, this town 
was visited by Captain John Smith, and some of his comrades, 
and they were hospitably entertained by the natives, previous 
to his starting on his voyage of exploration. It was at that time 
of very limited dimensions, being a small village, containing 
only about eighteen houses, and covering an area of three 
acres of ground. The name by which it was known, then, was 
Kecoughtan, after a tribe of Indians in the vicinity, who at that 
time were very small, numbering only about twenty warriors. 
It was settled by the English as early as 16 10, although the 
name it now bears, was not applied to it, until long afterward. 
In 1705, the town was incorporated, and received its present 
name of Hampton. 

"In 1794, Hampton is mentioned in the same connection 
with Norfolk, Richmond, Petersburg, and other towns, thus 
showing it must have been a place of some importance. '' 
This is taken from a work called " Notes on Virginia," by 
Thomas Jefferson. 

Hampton has, at various times, been visited by scourges in 
the shape of invaders, both in the War of the Revolution, 
and also in the late War of the Rebelion. " One of the 
earliest engagements of the Revolutionary War, was the suc- 
cessful defense of the town by the inhabitants, aided by a 
rifle company, against the boats of a British fleet, in October, 
1775. In 18 1 3, the town was less fortunate, being attacked 
by Admiral Cockburn and Sir Sidney Beckwith, with a flo- 
tilla of boats, and captured after a short but decisive action. 
On this occasion, the place was given up to pillage, and the 
inhabitants who had been unable to flee, subjected to most 



— 30 — 

shameful indignities and barbarities. Even the British com- 
mander, was moved to indignation, at the excesses he was un- 
able to prevent ; and answering a congratulation received 
from his commanding general at Norfolk, deprecated all praises 
of his achievement, with the forcible and striking remark : 
•' Worthless is the laurel that is steeped in woman's tears." 

Again when the war of 1861 broke out, Hampton was 
destined to still further disaster. The creek upon which 
the town now stands, was, for awhile, the dividing line be- 
tween the Union and Confederate forces ; the latter occupy- 
ing the western, the former the eastern side. In August 1 861 , 
the Contederate forces, under General Magruder, numbering 
about seven thousand men, with eight pieces of artillery, were 
stationed on Back river, about three miles from Hampton. 
His intention was to force an engagement upon the Union 
soldiers stationed at Newport News ; or at least destroy the 
town, and thus prevent its being used by General Butler's 
men as winter quarters. The latter he was successful in 
doing ; as not only eveiy house but one was destroyed, but 
the long bridge spanning the creek, was burned also. " 

The preceding paragraph, and the one which immediately 
follows, we quote from ''Visitors' Hand Book of Old Point 
Comfort, Va., and Vicinity, " by C. W. Betts, of the Hampton 
Normal and Agriculture Institute of Hampton, Va. The suc- 
ceeding paragraph is the account of the burning of Hampton, 
by an officer of the Confederate army, who was an eye-wit- 
ness of, and a participant in, the same. His statement is as 
foUows : " The burning of this beautiful and ancient little 
town, was not an act of mere wanton and useless destruction ; 
nor was it expected, by those who suggested or carried it into 
execution, to have any material effect in crippling the opera- 
tion of the Federal army encamped in its vicinity. But, at 
that time, the opinion prevailed throughout the North, that 



— 31 — 

the masses of the Southern people, were not in sympathy 
with the secession movement, but were led, or rather forced 
along, against their will, and convictions, by defeated and am- 
bitious politicians. ****** 

•' It became necessary, in some emphatic way, to disabuse 
the Northern mind, of this entire misconception of the actual 
condition of affairs, and it was supposed that a scene, such 
as tlie burning of a town by its own inhabitants, rather than 
have it occupied by an invading foe, w^ould tend greatly to 
the accomplishment of the end. 

"This step had several times been suggested to General 
Magruder, commanding on the Peninsula, and this too. 
by residents of the town and county ; but he, unwilling to 
sacrifice the property of citizens who had already suffered so 
much from the ravages of war, had declined to adopt the 
suggestion. At length, however, he reluctantly yielded to 

the wishes of the people. 

********** 

" Having stationed a considerable force at the Whiting 
Farm, on the New Market road, about five miles from Hamp- 
ton, he despatched a battalionof four companies from Colonel 
Hodges regiment. Captain Phillips and Good's companies of 
cavalry, and Captain Sinclair's company of infantry, to the 
accomplishment of the enterprise. Captain Phillips's comp- 
any. Old Dominion Dragoons, was raised in the town and 
county ; and Captain Sinclair's, the York Rangers, was raised 
in the county of York, but officered by men from Hampton ; 
the remaining troops were from other portions of Virginia. 

The whole force was under the command of Colonel Hodges. 

********** 

"Strong guards were sent out on the Newport News and 
Salter's Creek roads, to prevent a surprise from that direction, 
as the bridge over the creek which crosses the Back river 



32 



road, had been burned, and a force obtaining possession of the 
New Market road, would effectually cut off their line of re- 
treat. A strong picket was also sent out to Hope's farm, on 
the road leading north from the town. 

"The expedition entered Hampton just after nightfall, on 
the 9th of August, 1 861, and immediately proceeded to the 
work of conflagration. The town as it stood at the time, lay 
almost entirely on the western bank of Hampton river, and 
was divided into four nearly equal sections, by King and Queen 
streets. The plan of operation was simply to assign a detach- 
ment to each of these sections with instructions to commence 
on the eastern side, and fire the houses as they retired. 

"Colonel Hodges halted his battalion at a line of breast- 
works thrown up by the enemy just to the westward of the old 
church wall, while Captain Phillips took command cf the re 
maining troops, and proceeded to the more active work of the 
night. After assigning each detachment to its special duty, 
he himself, proceeded to the foot of Hampton Bridge, to watch 
any demonstration of the enemy, from the direction of Fort 
Monroe. After a little brisk firing the Federal pickets retired, 
and the Confederates were in undisputed possession of the 
town. 

"But few of the houses were occupied ; all the arms-bearing 
population was in the Confederate army ;most of the non-com- 
batants had fled to Williamsburg, Richmond and other places 
when the Federal troops had first occupied Newport News, 
and the negroes, not carried away by their owners, had, for 
the most part, sought the protection of the Federal lines. Thus, 
Uie town was virtually deserted, only a few old and infirm 
people, remaining in it. But the most painful part of that 
night's work, was to inform those few of the dreadful errand 
on which they had come. 






"No time could be given for the removal of effects ; w'uit 
was to be done, had to be done quickly ; so, in fifteen minutes 
after the citizens had been notified to leave, the work of firing 
had begun. So finely planned and so admirably executed 
were the arrangements for this, that in half an hour every 
house had been fired, and before dawn, the pretty little village 
was a disfigured heap of smouldering ashes and crumbling 
walls. Only five houses remained standing, they, from some 
cause, having tailed to burn. Of these five, two were torn 
down by the Federal troops ; and now, there are only two 
houses on the eastern side of the river, that were built prior 
to the 7th day of August, 1861. 

"It is due to the vindication of General Magruder's character, 
against the reproaches that have been cast upon it, to say, this 
act, since so loudly condenmed, was, at that time, received 
with cordial approval. Concurrent testimony amply proves, 
that, in mtaiy cases, property was fired by the hands of its 
owners, or the children of its owners and this, too, with an 
alacritv and zeal, altogether unsurpassed. " 

From this statement, coming as it does, from an eye-wit- 
ness of its horrors, it appears that much of the stigma attach- 
ing to General Magruder. and his associates, is undeserved, and 
hearing "botli sides of the story, "is apt to change the opinion of 
those, who have always supposed the burning of the beauti- 
ful little town, to liave*been an act on part of the Confederates 
of wanton cruelty and uncalled-for vandalism. 

For some time after the War closed, Hampton was compar- 
atively at a stand-still, and we find nothing worthy of note 
concerning it. Its popukition consisting almost entirely of the 
colored element, were chiefly engaged in the humble occupa- 
tions of oystering and fishing. Changes in Nations, communities 
or fomilies, if they are sudden, bring with them acorrespond- 

6 



— 34 - 

ing degree of joy, if agreeable, or, on the other hand, if the 
change be not an agreeable one, a depression will inevitably 
ensue, which, for a time, paralyzes all exertion, and utterly 
prostrates every industry. 

This was the state of things financially and commercially, 
in one of the garden spots of our Country, '• the sunny South. " 
Here, where everything had been so flourishing, before the 
dread Angel of War flapped his dark pinions over her fair 
territory, bringing destruction and ruin in his train, a sudden 
stagnation succeeded, and business was utterly at a stand-still. 
Her wharves, which, ere the tocsin of War with its discordant 
blast, sounded on the ears of its victims, had been the scene 
of the Kvehest mercantile prosperity, after the advent of tliis 
dread monster, presented, to the eye of the observer, a dreary 
desolation, which could only be conceived by an eye-witness. 

Hampton in conjunction with the rest of the South, partook 
of tills general stagnation, and for years, her improvements 
were insignificant. Gradually, however, she recovered from 
the shock, and, with the ushering in of the new era, whereby 
the down-trodden Africans so long oppressed and imposed 
upon, could enjoy, legally, the same privileges and immunities, 
as their ever more highly-favored white biethren, a newj^egime 
was instituted, and improvements, though slovv^ were sure. 

Modern buildings are rapidly supplanting the old houses ; 
manufactures of various kinds, and trade generally, continues to 
increase ; this is largely owing to the foct, that Northern cap- 
italists, with commendable foresight, are beginning to turn their 
attention to this promising field of investment, and with their 
advent, and the enterprise accompanying it, a career of pros- 
perity is opening for Flampton, the evidence of which can be 
seen by any one visiting and viewing the town in its present 
proi)orlions, and contrasting it with its dimensions as hereto- 
fore described. 



—,35 - 

It i.-^ MOW connected l;y mil and a line of chariots with 
Old Point Comfort a.nd by rail with Newport News, of which 
ii ore will be said in detail hereafter. This innovation, a pos- 
sibility which the wildest imagination would never have deemed 
worthy of consideration a moment, a dozen years ago, fully 
establishes the fact of its advancement and prosperity. 

The Chesapeake and Ohio Rail Road have completed a 
bn'.nch of their road, having Chesapeake City, or Mill Creek, 
as it is familiarly called, for its terminus, the station being 
1 amed Phcobus Station, after the proprietor of the Hygeia 
Hotel. Along its route, for a distance of eighty miles or 
more, points of attraction are continually meeting the eye of the 
traveler, and by their interest, historically And otherwise, 
amply repay a visit and investigation. Before entering upon 
a discussion of their respective merits we will conch de our de- 
.^ cviptl on of Hampto n . To resume : — 

The town contains about three thousand inhabitants, prin- 
cipally colored, although, from tlio facts aready narrated, the 
Caucasian element of its population, is rapidly on the increase, 
and numbers in its ranks, most of the principal merchants. 
Tiiere are two principal streets, running at right angles with 
each other, forming the chief thoroughfares. The main one, 
upon which the bridge opens being named Queen, and its in- 
tersecting companion. King. Previous to the War of the Re- 
bellion, Hampton, in comparison with its present proportions, 
was very limited in extent. The two streets just referred to 
being the only ones, and, dividing the village, as it then was, 
into four equal parts, formed a square. The names given to 
these two streets, was in consistency with a custom, prevalent 
at the time, of giving to localities, as much as possible, names 
of English origin ; the observance of this custom is discernible 
in the names of most of the counties of Virginia, and the Eng- 
lish inhabihuits of Hampton, with the love of their mother 



-36- . 

country still warm in their breasts, exhibited and perpetuated 
the same, in the names of objects by which they were sur- 
rounded in everyday life, and which continually brought to 
mind their bonny island home. 

This same feeling is observable in another class of its in- 
habitants, viz., the negroes. After the War, when Hampton 
began to increase in size, and the colored people began to 
form so large a proportion of its populace, they erected " shan- 
ties" along what were then merely lanes, bestowing upon these 
such names as Lincoln, and others of similar character, having 
in them so much relative to such an important era, in the his- 
tory of the colored race, and which constantly brought to their 
minds those patriots, who, by the sacrifice of every comfort 
and by the yielding up of life itself, succeeded in effecting their 
emancipation. 

The town is rapidly increasing its hmits towards Newport 
News on the west, and the Chesapeake and Ohio Rail Road 
on the north. It is rapidly comprehending within its bound- 
aries all it ssuburban surroundings, such, as are now known as, 
'' Little England, " and "Fox Hill, " and will eventually take 
in Newport News itself. 

The chief attraction in this town, so pregnant with historic 
memories, is Old St. John's Church. "It is on the right hand 
side of Queen Street a short distance above King. In as brief 
a manner as possible, we will give as much of its history, as 
we have been able to gather. Under the administration of 
Sir Thomas Yeardley, in 1621, there was a law passed that a 
house of worship should be erected, and a burial ground set 
apart, on every settlement in Virginia. But as Kecoughton 
was one of the earliest settled places, it is natural to suppose 
that a church was erected some time previous to this date. 
The old records place the date at 1620. The new church, 
(St. John's), was built between 165 8 and 1660. The old church 



— 37 — 

wa? on what is known as the " Pembroke farm, '' about three- 
quarters of a mile from St. John's Church on the same road. 
Tliere are a number of old gravestones still on the place. 
Amontr other interments, is that of Sir John Neville, Vice- 
Admiral o'f his Majesty's fleet in the West Indies, who died 
in 1697. 

The present Vestry book of the Church dates back no 
further than 175 1, the original having been lost or destroyed. 
But the records of the Court extend back to 1635, and furnish 
interesting and reliable information. The first record we 
have is that of the church Wardens presenting to the Court 
an un wortliy female in 1644. In the next year we read of a 
Rev. Mr. Mallory, as performing service and being remuner- 
ated for it. In the next year we read of a Rev. Justinian Aylmer, 
who officiated till 1667. He was succeededby Jeremiah Taylor 
who buried a Mr. Nicholas Baker in the New Church of Kich- 
otdii, according to a request of the deceased in his will. In 
the same year, Mr. Robert Brough, requests to be buried in 
the Old Church of Kichotan. Thus in the same year there 
was a new and an old church standing. " 

Pastors regularly succeeded each other from that time un- 
til the present. Prominent among them was the Rev. Mark 
L. Chevers, who served as Chaplain at Old Point Comfort 
during the same time, and was known and beloved by all the 
inhabitants. He served from about 18 16 till 1842-43. The 
[Dissent incumbent, Rev. Mr. Gravatt, succeeded his prede- 
cessor in 1876. 

It is supposed that the bricks used in the construction of the 
edifice, were brought from England by the early colonists, 
and although the church lias passed througii various vicissi- 
tudes, yet it has withstood the ravages of time, and the as- 
saults of frenzied foes, and to-day peacefully reposing amid 
its quiet surroundings, near the " City of the dead, " it stands 



38 



tho oldest church in Aiiierica. 

The British forces occupied this ediiice during the war of 
1812, using it for various purposes, and they destroyed all hut 
the walls. The framcnvork of ihe ])ell tower became so de- 
cayed about this time, that the '* Old Queen Anne " bell, was 
taken down, and placed in the angle made by the church and 
tower. However it was removed from that position by order 
of Major Grntchfield, (who commanded the troops encamped 
on '* Little England Farm ") to the guard-house of that encamp- 
ment, and the tongue becoming loose shortly after, an axe was 
used to strikeThe hours, and the bell cracked. It was recast 
in 1825. 

The condition of the church at this time being very dilap- 
idated, it was determined to repair the same, and a meeting 
was called, vestrymen elected, and means sufficient were 
raised to defray the expense. Its tribulations, hcwever, were 
not at an end, as at the beginning of tlie War of the Rebellion, 
it was set on fire and buniedto tlie ground ].>y [lie Confederates ; 
but the v\^alls were so substantially buih, tiintthey withstood 
even this severe test, and remain a part of the present struc- 
ture. So intent were its destroyei's in their wholesale de- 
struction of this ancient landmark, that excavations were made 
under each of the four corners, to find the corner-stone, in 
order to rifle it of whatever treasures^ it possessed : whether 
the vandals were successful or not, history fails to record. 
There are several ancient graves within its enclosure, the old- 
est of which is dated 1 70 1. The church is always opeff to 
visitors, the key being found at the residence of the sexton 
but a few doors from the church. 

The Post Office, Jail and Court House, are situated on King 
Street, but a few doors from Queen. The Office of the County 
Clerk, is in the second story of the Court House, where may 
be seen the old records, some of which are very interesting, 
and are shown to visitors, upon application at the clerk's office. 



— 39 — 

On King Street, a lew (lours IVoiii Barnes's Hotel, stands what 
may be considered as being second in importance, in the town 
so far as antiquity goes, it being the only house left of the original 
town, it is ti. large brick building, old fashioned in style and 
substantially built, with high steps in front. 

The Baptist and Methodist denominations, have represen- 
tative churches in the town, both white and colored. The 
Baptist Church (white) is a remarkably tasty structure on King 
Street, opposite the Court House. Hampton boasts a very 
neat bank ; it is situated on Queen Street; a brick building; 
and is one of the ornaments of the town. 

Two hotels, Barnes's and the Hotel Comfort, the former on 
King Street, a few doors from Queen, and the latter on Queen 
Street, a short distance from the Bridge, and numerous board- 
ing houses, in the town and vicinity, offer their accommoda- 
tions to the public, and cater to its wants. 

Many strange sights meet the eye of the observer, as he 
traverses the streets of this little southern town. Some of 
them bring back forcibly reminiscences of the days '' befo' 
de wa\ " In the rear part of the town, removed from its busi- 
ness thoroughfares, resides the element of its population whose 
mannerisms and peculiarities, preserved to this day as they 
wei"? in " the palmy days of slavery, '' produce the impres- 
sions to which we have just referred. Their tumbled down 
shanties, having nothing in their appearance of either elegance 
or refinement, but whose uncouth exterior detracts notliing 
from their value in the eyes of their occupants, are in striking 
consistency with the manners and characteristics of this prover- 
bially liappy peo])le. Knowing but little of the usages of so- 
ciety, and caring less for its fastidious distinctions, the negro 
smokes his pipe, and plays with his wife and children, with as 
iniu'li gusto, and hilarity, as do his brothers of the white race, 
ill their elegant parlors, and handsomely appointed drawing- 



—- 40 - 

rooms. On the steps of these primitive habitations, may be 
seen their happy occupants, smoking and gossiping over the 
little events which interest them, after the day's work is done, 
while the children in Paradisaically scant costume, tumble 
and roll in merry mirth before the cottage door. 

The picture would lack its finishing touch, did it not possess 
the inevitable canine as its crowning feature , and scarcely a 
family but possesses its " dorg, " whose privileges and liberties, 
as regards both eating and sleeping, are regarded as sacredly, 
as are those of any of the rest of the household. 

Many styles of equipage, which you would fail to find in 
the catalogue of any of our fashionable carriage makers, are 
to be seen in these southern climes. To those accustomed to 
to look upon nothing but the tasty and elegant " turn-outs, " 
of the fashionable metropolis, these primitive specimens of 
vehicles have a peculiar interest, and arc an attractive feature. 
Few of them possess any horses, and their only animal of labor, 
and also for drivino-, is the steer. It is amusins to see the 
ingenuity exhibited by some of these hum»)le laborers, in the 
manufacture of wheeled vehicles. All he seems to need is 
an axle-tree, and a pair of wheels, and from a few pieces of 
lumber, and some nails, he will manufacture a useful means 
of transporting himself, and his articles of merchandise, in 
which he sits with as lordly a grace, and as much pride, as 
though it were a coach and four. Sometimes a box is all 
that is seen above the wheels, and perhaps the animal boasts 
but one or one and a-half horns, but a "steer's a steer for 
a'that, " and whether pleasuring or doing business he is the 
negroe's mainstay. 

Lying midway between Hampton and Mill Greek, are two 
points of great interest nationally and locally. We refer to 
the National Home for D. V. Soldiers, and the Hanipfon Nor- 
mal and Agricultural Institide. The entrance to the National 



— 41 — 

Ilomc^ which we will make the first subject of discussion, 
is a side road, branching- off from the main road leading 
from the Point to Hampton. A large gate- way admits us, 
wliich is surmounted by a wooden semicircle: just inside 
of which is a small guard-house surmounted by a statue of 
Liberty and used as a rendezvous for the guard while on duty. 
A pleasant and beautiful gravel carriage-drive, enables the 
visitors to inspect the grounds from their carriages, and thus 
gain a general idea of the inclosure, before proceeding to a 
more minute inspection on foot. 

The home is delightfully situated amid its embowering trees 
and shrubbery, facing Hampton Roads, and at the entrance 
of Hampton Creek. Previous to the War, it was known as 
the Chesapeake Female College, under the control of the Bap- 
tist denomination. It was built in 1857, at a cost of ^64,000, 
and was occupied about November of the same year, although 
not entirely finished until the winter of 1859-60. It consisted 
originally of 40 acres. Here the elite of Virginia's aristocracy 
senttlieir daughters, and their merry ringing laughter resound- 
ed through these halls in the ante helium days, but with tlie 
brooding of the dark cloud of war, they were put to a far 
different use 

In October 1861, it was taken possession of by the Govern- 
ment, and used as a hospital ; and afterwards used by Gener- 
al Schofield as Headquarters. It was purchased by General 
Butler in 1864, who sold it to the Government for its present 
use in 1870, for which they paid him ;sg50,ooo. 

The Rev. Charles A. Raymond, the former President of 
the College, was appointed the first Deputy Governor of this 
Branch, January ist 1871. During that year the inmates 
numbered 50, but as the place became better known, and its 
facilities increased, the number became larger Tlie number 
that could be accommodated originally was 350. 



On the 17th of January 1873, Captain P. T. Woodfm, the 
present Covernor, was appointed, and under his able manage- 
ment, the capacity of the Home was greatly increased, until 
its inmates now number between 12,00 or 15,00. New Bar- 
racks and Amusement Hall were built, Library enlarged, and 
the accommodations generally of the home, largely increased. 
Since its incipiency between 3030 and 4000 inmates, have 
been relieved and cared for. In 1883, the first quarter, the 
average number present was 1057 5 pr^s^ent and absent, over 
1200; whole number cared for 1349. The demand from all 
parts of the country were so frequent, and the applications for 
admission so numerous, that it became necessary to enlarge 
the accommodations, and the main building was remodeled ; 
on each of the four floors, the whole front of the building is 
occupied by broad piazzas, and the strictest attention is paid to 
the comfort and convenience of the inmates. New buildings 
are constantly being added, taking the place of the unsightly 
frame structures, which at the time of its adoption as a home, 
were hastily constructed to meet the emergencies then exist- 
ing. The present Officers of the Institution are as follows : — 
Captain P. T, Woodfin, Governor; Wm. Thompson, Treasurer. 
Secretary and C. S. ; Doctor S. K. Towle, Surgeon. General 
McClellan is the Local Manager. 

There are many attractions in the grounds to visitors. The 
Main Building, Ward Memorial Hall, Conservatory, Hospital. 
Library and Reading Room. We will first visit the Mahi 
Building. It is approached by a broad flight of steps, which 
having ascended, we stand on the piazza of the second story. 
The style of the building, betrays its original use. It has a- 
bout it still, the air of an Academy, and the architecture of 
the Building is in consistency with its original use. The en- 
tire structure is used for company quarters. It is very neat 
and clean in all its arrangements, and passing through one 



— 43 — 

might imagine it to be always " inspection day. " The in- 
mates are sitting on their bunks, reading, smoking or engaged 
in any occupation suited to their several tastes, and seem con- 
tented and happy. 

We pass on to the second, third, fourth and fifth stories, 
and find them duplicates of the first. From the piazza ot the 
fifth story is obtained a magnificent view of the harbor and 
Roads. The sight which we can view from this elevated 
stand-point, more than repays us for the exertion we have 
expended in reaching it. 

Far out at sea, the canvas of an approaching vessel may 
be seen. It is a picture which must be seen in order to be 
appreciated. With the canvas "belKed" out with the wind, 
and the sun rays falling upon it with such a beautiful effect, 
making her sails seem dazzlingly white, and her keel, hull 
and masts, forming such a pleasing contrast, she seems in- 
stinct with life, and glides upon the surface ot the water with 
a grace and beauty which is almost magical, and to a vivid 
imagination seems almost spectral. 

When approaching from the mouth of the Bay, her differ- 
ent parts loom into view, and her symmetry and beauty be- 
come apparent, gradually approaching completeness, it is fitly 
emblemized by the unvailing of some mighty statue. The 
(•loud canvas rolling back gradually, and disclosing the per- 
fection of the picture concealed beneath. 

A more picturesque view than this Harbor, when it is filled 
with these white-winged sea-birds, can scarcely be conceived. 
Far as the eye can reach, the tall spire-like masts loom up a- 
gainst the horizon, and seem like the steeples of a great city. 
At night when each craft hangs out her lights, and twinkling- 
ly they glimmer forth into the darkness, the sight, to a spect- 
ator at a distance is one long to be remembered ; they seem 
like the shifting scenes of a panorama, or the populous streets 



— 44 — 

of a great city, teeming with life, and brilliantly lighted with 
thousands of gas-jets. 

Having viewed the Harbor in all its details, we will next 
ascend to the cupola, from which a bird's-eye view of the en- 
tire grounds is obtained. The buildings, and the grounds 
surrounding them, seen from this altitude, present a very 
pleasing picture. TJie floral arrangements particularly, are 
shown to advantage by the distance, and their beauty is more 
decided and apparent than when we are looking at them, 
when on a level with them. Not only can our immediate 
surroundings be viev\ cd, but the entire country, for miles, as 
far as the eye can reach, lays spread out, like a grand canvas 
painting, before us. 

The next building to which the gaze and attention of the 
observer is drawn is Ward Memorial Hall, The Hall was 
built from funds bequeathed by Horatio Ward of London, 
England. The original amount left was ^100,000, which with 
its accumulated interest amounted to ;^i 1 1,000. The amount 
was divided among different Branches. The following extract 
is taken from the Minutes of the Board of Managers, and may 
prove interesting : — 

"The President laid before the Board a communication 
from Messers Farmer and Bobbins, of London, solicitors of 
the late Horatio Ward, announcing that the high Court of 
Chancery of England, had made a decree ordering the delivery 
of the Bonds named in the Will of said Horatio Ward, being 1 5 
bonds State of Missouri, ^15,000; 25 North Carolina, ;^25,ooo: 
20 Viriginia, ;^20,ooo ; 40 Tennesee, $40,000. Total, $100,000 ; 
with accumulated interest amounting to $9,700, in United 
States Bonds; and ^^250, 9s.6d. cash; to the National Asy- 
lum. 

" Whereupon the following resolution was adopted : 

^'' Besol)ed, That the Board of Managers of the National 



— 45 - 

AsyliiiH for Disabled Volunteer Soldiers, being found entitled, 
under a degree of the high Court of Chancery of England, 
dated June 4th, 1870, in the suit of Ward vs McKervan, to the 
legacy given by the will of the late Horatio Ward to the Na- 
tional Soldiers' and Sailors' Home in Washington, hereby 
accept the same in full discharge of the executors of said will, 
to wit: Benjamin Moran Esq. and Henry Powel Esq. ; that 
be duly authorized and empowered, as the certain at- 
torney of the Board of Managers,, to receive the Bonds with 
the accrued interest, as invested, and also any cash balance 
there may be ; and due acquittance and discharge for the same 
to make to the said executors ; and that the power of attorney 
accompanied with this resolution, under the seal of the Asy- 
lum, and certified by the President a'nd Secretary, be also 
signed by the President of the United States, and Secretary 
of War, as ex-officio members of the Board. 

Besolred : — In grateful acknowledgment of the magnificent 
donation to the National Asylum for Disabled Volunteer Sol- 
diers, by the late Horatio Ward of London, England, that 

a suitable Tablet be inscribed as follows: " The Ward Home 
for Dis»ibled Soldiers," and placed ui)on the principal build- 
ing of the Southern Branch.'' 

The above shows the appropriateness of the title bestowed 
upon the building, and is also a testimonial to the charity and 
benevolence of the donator. In this building is the large, airy, 
dining room, containing sixteen long tables capable of seating 
1,000 men ; on the same floor is the kitchen containing all the 
appurtenances of a first-class hotel kitchen. The bread is 
supplied from a Bakery on the grounds, and is of the best qual- 
ity. The bill of fare changes daily, and embraces good sub- 
stantial food, such as is calculated to preserve good health and 
afford them what is pleasant and palatable. 

The Bill of Fare below will give an idea of what they gen- 



-46- 

erally consist. While it contains few of the luxuries, yet all 
its items are healthful and nutritious: — 

Breakfast Dinner Sujqier 

Ham . Roast Beef Stewed Prunes 

Bread Bread Bread 

Potatoes Butter Butter 

Eggs Potatoes Cheese 

Butter Rice Pudding Tea 

Coffee Coffee 

There is also a fine Billiard Hall and Theatre in the second 
story of the Hall. The Billiard Hall is large and furnished 
with first class tables at which the inmates can amuse them- 
selves at pleasure. The Theatre is as Ihie a little Opera House, 
as can be found within the limits of any city, and affords a 
means for the gratification of the lovers of the "Drama,'* 
whose tastes are sometimes catered to by travelling Troupes 
of first class ability, and sometimes by the "Home Troupes,'' 
ot which there are two connected with the same, Theatrical 
and Minstrel. The Offices of the Commandant, Secretary, 
Sergeant Major, and Treasurer, are in a neat brick building 
called "Headquarters," situated to the right of Ward Hall. 
The Conservatory, containing a fine collection of rare exotics, 
well repays a visit, and here can be purchased flowers made 
into any desirable shape. 

The Hospital with its world of untold suffering, and manifold 
examples of heroism next attracts our attention. Here may 
be seen those who for country's sake and Liberty have sacri- 
ficed so much of their lives and happiness. What ground- 
vvork for tales of fiction of enchancing interest, could the nov- 
elist find in many of these unwritten lives, full of romance and 
doomed to suffering and death, as the reward of their devo- 
tion. 

On the second floor of the first building on the left, as we 



— 47- 

enter the grounds, are the Library, Reading and Smoking 
Rooms. The Library has been supported principally by con- 
tributions, the first of which was made by the " Ladies Union" 
of New York in I871. Since then donations have been made 
by many parties whose memories of the deeds of valor per- 
formed by these heroes, induced them to show, by this means, 
a slight appreciation cf their merits. Among them may be 
mentioned, Mrs. General McGlellan, Mrs. Zollil^offer and Mr. 
Albert Crane of New York City, Mrs. Oswin Wells, Mrs. J. Wat- 
son Black, Mrs. Whitmore, Mrs. J. H. Goodwin, Miss Batter- 
son, and Mr. Black, of Hartford, Conn., and many others. 

Governor Woodfm, always anxious to secure every comfort 
and enjoyment to the inmates, has taken a great in- 
terest in the Library, and has made many choice and interest- 
ing additions to tlie same, till they now number over four 
thousand volumes. The works comprise editions in three 
different languages — American, German and French. There 
ai'e one hundred and forty-six papers taken, twenty-six 
of them being daily, five tri-weekly, and one hundred and fif- 
teen weekly ; besides magazines and other periodicals. The 
Library is open daily from 8 A. M. to 12 M,, and from i to 
5 P. M.; also from 6 to 8 P. M. It is closed on Saturday af- 
ternoon from I to 6 o'clock. 

Besides the points of interest already described a great 
many other attractions present themselves to the visitor, and 
claim his attention. A magnificent drive skirts the water's 
edge, from which a beautiful view of the Roads and Bay, can 
be seen. A beautiful promenade, consisting of a broad board 
terrace, runs the whole length of the breakwater, and is used 
by the inmates as a promenade, and conduces both to their 
health and comfort. 

Great care has been taken, and a lavish expenditure has 
been made, in tastefully laying out, and beautifully shading 



-48 - 

the grounds, and a more admirably arranged, or more suit- 
ably situated object for the purpose for which it was intended, 
could not be imagined. 

A well organized Fire Department, whose efficacy has been 
thoroughly tested, especially in Hampton, at the late hre, 
April loth, 1884, where its efficiency and skill were most 
clearly exhibited, adds its quota to the numerous and valu- 
able auxiliaries of this Institution, and prove it to be not 
merely an ornamenal appendage. 

On the grounds a well fitted up, and fully equipped "Sut- 
ler Store," furnish the inmates with articles of comfort and 
necessity. 

The entertainments in "Ward Memorial Hall," theatrical 
and otherwise, enliven the tedium of an otherwise humdrum 
existence, but are by no means the only sources of amuse- 
ment, as boating, yatching, fishing and salt-water bathing 
(the houses for this purpose being erected on the dock at the 
mouth of the creek), combine to render the life of the inmates 
pleasant and happy. 

Ojjen Air Concerts, by the Military Band connected wdth 
the Institution, from 2 to 4 P. M., daily, (Sundays excepted) 
are another pleasing feature of each day's doings in this mag- 
nificent evidence of a nation's gratitude to her veterans. 

Every Sunday Morning at 9:30 A. M,, an Outside Inspedion 
occurs. In this ceremony about 1,000 of the veterans partic- 
ipate, and in their uniforms, grouped about the spacious 
walks in companies, afford-i picturesque and interesting view 
to a spectator. 

A great many souvenirs, both fanciful and curious, can be 
secured by visitors, from the inmates, many of whom employ 
llieir spare time in this artistic and pleasing occupation. A 
farm of 1 50 acres, about three miles distant from the Home, 
from which valuable produce for the consumption of the in- 



— 49 — 

)iiak's is oblaiiied, ailils to the value of the Home projjerty. 

Takinjj: our leave of the Home grounds, we will next visit 
the National Cemetery, where, reposing amid its weeping wil- 
lows, and quiet surroundings, sleep our martyred dead. — 
Here sleep those Sons of Freedom, whose blood cemented 
the foundations of the Nation's superstructure, and achieved 
those glorious victories, whose conseciucnces and results will 
be felt as long as our Republic has an existence. 

It is situated on the south-eastern side of the grounds of the 
Normal School, and is separated from the Soldiers' Home, 
by a narrow inlet of the Hampton Creek. It consists of an 
irregular lot, many-sided, six of which are right lines, and the 
remainder following the windings of the inlet above mentioned. 
A desultory glance would convey the idea, that it formed a 
parallelogram, twice as long as it was wide, but a more careful 
examination, would prove its fallacy. It contains 11.61 acres 
of level land, and was purchased by the United States in 1 867 
for the sum of $6,306. 

It is enclosed by a rubble stone wall, laid in mortar^ and 
covered by a rough coping. 

Entering on the North side by a gate, we proceed to the 
Superintendent's Office, and register our names; after which 
we proceed on our tour of inspection. Flower beds garnish 
the sides of the main avenue, which is a broad pathway 20 
feet wide. Tlie flag-staff surmounts a mound 350 feet from 
the entrance. Large cannon planted vertically flank the 
mound on each side. Here paths diverge to both ri^zlit and 
left of the main walk. 

A lai*ge solid granite monument rises in imposing propor- 
tion, near the centre of the grounds, and attracts the eye of 
the observer long before he reaches the enclosure of the Cem- 
etery. An iron fe?)C(\ composed of 3 inch rifhul cannon 

6 



— 50 — 

(Rodman), and the pickets, musket barrels with bayonets 
fixed, enclosing a circular grass plat 74 feet in diameter, forms, 
an appropriate surrounding for this colossal memento, erected 
to the memory of the Union troops, who fell to defend their 
beloved country from disunion and ruin. 

This monument is 63 feet in height, and was erected 
through the exertions of Miss D. L. Dix of New York. 

Entering a cemetery, one naturally looks for mounds sur- 
mounting the different graves, betokening the presence of the 
quiet sleepers beneath, but we fail to perceive them ; and 
were we not aware of its character, and were it not for the 
presence of the low tombstones, which stand at the head of 
each grave, we would imagine, and reasonably too, that we 
were entering some well kept park ; the ground is perfectly 
level, and the grass is kept closely cropped and the cemetery 
appears carpeted with a beautiful green. 

A marked distinction is observable in the southern portion 
of the grounds, the headstones here being all composed of 
wood, while the rest are stone. A reason for this will in- 
stantly suggest itself to the spectator, and it is easily assigned. 
The occupants of these graves were Confederates, who died 
while prisoners of war, either at the hospital at Camp Hamil- 
ton, or Fort Monroe. 

That such a marked distinction should exist is to be ex- 
tremely deprecated, as it seems to betoken a spirit of revenge, 
and unbecoming animosity, which, while it may not be inten- 
tional, reflects but little credit upon so great and glorious a 
Nation as our own. If for no other reason than a refutation 
of this apparent spleen, the matter should be looked into, and 
head stones supplied in place of the unsightly wooden ones. 

The interments from the Home average five a month. 
Nearly 6000 interments had been made up to May ist 1883. 
The bodies were brought, in many cases, from the places of 



on'fiinnl interment in the grounds of tlie general hospitals hi 
the vicinity : many from Big Bethel, Newport News, Norfolk, 
Craney Island, Portsmouth, and other places. 

It is a melancholy reminder of the terrible effects of War, 
when red-handed and vengeance-breathing it stalks through 
the land, marring its Mr beauty, and carrying death and de- 
struction in its wake. 

On coming out, we see a long frame building with a small 
steeple in front. This is Bethesda Chapel^ built during the 
war, by the Presbyterian Missionary Society of New York, in 
which religious services are held every Sabbath morning at 
10-45 A. M., by the Normal School. It has been twice order- 
ed to be removed, but, through the interposition of the offi- 
ce s and friends of the School, the order has been counter- 
manded each time. 

The building has a great many historic interests connected 
with it, which make it of more than ordinary moment to the 
visitor. One, in particular, we cite. Our martyred and w^ell 
beloved Garfield, delivered his last public address to the Stu- 
dents of the Normal School in it, on June 5th 1 881, about 
one month previous to his assassination. Below is the ad- 
dress, given impromptu, and bearing the stamp of philanthropy 
and large heartedness : — 

"As I drove through these grounds to-day, I was impress- 
ed with the thought that I was between the representatives 
of tne past and tlie future. Crippled and bent with service 
and years, those veterans, in the Soldiers' Home, represent 
the past. You represent the future — the future of your race 
— a future made possible by the past, by these graves around 
us. 

Two phases of the future strikes me as I look over the as- 
senijjia^c. For I see another race here ; a race from the far 
West. These two classes of the people are approaching the 



— 52- 

great problem of humanity, which is Labor^ from different 
sides. 

I put that problem into four words : Labor must be free. 
And for those of you from the far West I would omit the last 
word, in order to enforce the lesson. To you I would say: 
Labor vivst be!— for you, for all. Witlioat it there can be 
no civilization. The white race lias learned that truth. They 
came here as pioneers, felled the forests, and swept away all 
obstacles before them, by labor. Therefore to you I would 
say that without labor you can do nothing. The first text in 
your civilization is ; Labor must be! 

You of the African race have learned this text, but you 
learned it under the lash. Slavery taught you that labor 
must be. The mighty voice of war spoke out to you, and to 
us all, that labor must be forever />-e^. The basis of all civi- 
lization is that Labor must be. The basis of everything great 
in civilization, the glory of our civilization, is, that Labor must 
be free. 

I am glad that General Armstrong is working out this prob- 
lem on lioth sides — reaching one hand to the South, and one 
hand to the West — with all the continent of Anglo-Saxon 
civilization behind him ; working it out in the only Avay it 
can l)e worked out — the way that will give us a country with- 
out sections, a people without stain. " 

The Hampton Normal and Agricultural Institute, next enga- 
ges our attention. Situated about two and a-half miles from 
Old Point Comfort, on an estate of one hundred and twenty 
acres, on what was once known as ''Little Scotland," it was 
during the Civil War, known as ''Camp Hamilton," the base 
Hospital of the Army of the James. As many as 15,000 sick 
and wounded Union soldiers, were gathered here, and cared 
for, at one time. 

Ilie estate was purchased in the summer of 1867 for ;^I9,- 
000. Through its trustee, Hon. Josiah King, ^10,000 of this 
amount was paid by the "Avery" fund, and the remainder, 
by the Missionary Association of New York. The necessary 



— 50 — 

huildiniTs woro oivctcd. and the school was formally opened, 
in April, 1868, with flltrcn scholars and two teachers. In 
June 1870, the Institution was chartered by the General As- 
senil)ly of Virginia. This Charter created a corporation, hav- 
ing power to choose its own successors, and exempting its 
property from taxation. The Board consists of sev^teen 
members, who liold and control the entire property of the 
School, by deed from the American Missionary Association. 

In March 1872, the General Assembly granted the Institu- 
tion one-third of the Agricultural College land grant of Virgin- 
ia. This share, comprising one hundred thousand acres, was 
sold two months afterward for $95,000. Nine-tenths of this 
sum was invested in State bonds paying an annual interest of 
6 per cent. The other tenth was used in the purchase of 
additional land, swelling the size of the home farm to one 
hundred and ninety acres. The annual interest is paid by 
the State, and supplies one-fifth of the running expenses of 
the School. 

The expenditures must be ratified by a Board of six cura- 
tors (three of whom may be colored) appointed by the Gov- 
ernor every four ycnu-s. Besides ttie proi)erty innnediately 
attached to the Home, al)out four miles from Hampton there 
is a grain farm of six hundred acres, worked by students, and 
called the "Hemenway" farm. The entire property of the 
Institution valued at some $400,000, witli the exception of 
about $45,000, has been paid for by private subscription. 
E'Ach contributor receives an annual report of the receipts and 
expenditures, salaries, as well as the gain or loss of each 

l)ranch of industry. 
The prime object of the Institution, is to furnish the Negro 

race with a corps of competent, energetic, practical teachers : 

but the demand greatly exceeds the supply, and is increasing 

yearly. 



— 54 - 

In April, 1878, Indian students were first admitted, the first 
arrival of which, consisted of seventeen Arapahoe, Cheyenne ^ 
and Kiowa warriors, taken from a band of fifty, who had 
been held as prisoners of war at St. Augustine, Florida, for 
three years, under Gapt. R. H. Pratt, of the U. S. Army. The 
good accomplished with these, the most savage of the Indian 
race, led to still further efforts on their behalf, and now the 
number of Indian students is 108, representing both sexes- 
fifteen agencies, and as many different tribes. The students 
for the year ending June 30th, 1883 were as follows : — 

Negro Students Male 277 

'• '' Female 198—475 

Indian Students Male 66 

" '' Female 41 — 107 

Total 582 

This shows the vast amount of good which is being accom, 
phshed, and which may well fill the hearts of those engaged 
in the enterprise, with pride and gratitude. 

Of the 50 officers and teachers in class room, agricultural 
workshop, and housekeeping departments, 1 3 are graduates 
of the School. Ninety per cent, of the four hundred and fif- 
ty-two graduates are teaching, or have taught in this and 
neighboring states. 

Classes may he visited each week-day, except Monday, be- 
tween 10:30 and 12 o'clock A. M. 

The tcork shops may be visited any week-day, morning or 
afternoon. 

The dinner hour is 12:20 P. M., at which time all the stu- 
dents assemble in the large dining room in Virginia Hall. On 
Saturday\s only^ the School Band plays during this hour. Bat- 
talion Drill on Saturdays, from 4 to 5 P. M. Inspection every 
morning, except Sunday and Monday, at 8:15. Church Ser- 



— 55 — 

niccs in tlie chapol in the National Cemetery, on Sunday 
m )rnings, at 10:45 o'clock. Seats free. 



Starting on our tour of inspection, after visiting the Offices 
of the Principal and Treasurer, situated in a plain and sub- 
stantial brick building fiicing Hampton Greek, we will first 
visit the Library and Reading Room, on the upper floor of 
this building. Many curiosities of both African and Indian 
origin are here arranged in groups in show-cases ; together 
with 2600 volumes, and many of the leading newspapers and 
periodicals of the day. The Post Office is also in this build- 
ing. 

We will next proceed to Academic Hall, situated between 
Ihe Office building and the Saw Mill. It is divided into class- 
rooms, while on the upper floor is a large room for prayer meet- 
ings and other purposes. The Huntington Industrial Works, 
Ihe munificent gift of G. P. Huntington, Esq., President of the 
('hesapeake and Ohio Rail Road Gompany, next engages our 
attention. Here are manufactured window-sash, door-frames, 
scroll work, and mouldings. Roth white and colored me- 
(ihanics are employed here. The lower floor is used for the 
manufacture and dressing of plain lumber ; the second floor 
for circular sawing, scroll sawing, turning. &c., while the 
third floor is used as a store and drying room. Mr. Albert 
Howe is business manager of this department. 

The new Machine Shop, in charge of Mr. J. R. H. Goff, is 
the next point of attraction. All Ihe gas and steam fitting, 
also the repairing of machinery, is done here. Leaving this 
building we pass, on our way, two frame cottages called 
•'Manjuand'' and "Graves" cottage respectively. They con- 
tain boys' (iomitories. 



-56- 

The next place v\hich engages our attention, is The ''Stone" 
Memorial Building, which was erected by the liberal contri- 
bution of Mrs. Valeria Stone of Maiden, Mass., who gave 
$20,000 toward its erection. We come first to the Girls In- 
dustrial Room and Sewing and Tailoring Department. Here 
all the mending and making of garments are done, and uni- 
forms for the sudents are made. Here also we can purchase 
souvenirs of our visit to this Institution — articles made by 
Indian and colored students — such as decorated pottery, 
paper knives, dressed dolls, needle handiwork, &c. Miss M. 
T. Galpin has general charge, and Mr. R. H. Hamilton is in 
charge ot the Tailoring Department. On the same floor is 
the Knitting Department, w^iere the manufocture of mittens 
is carried on. 

We next visit the Printing Office and Book Bindery on the 
tirst floor also. Two large cylinder and two job presses run 
by steam, despatch mechanical printed matter of every de- 
scription. From twelve to fifteen hands are at work, bo h 
colored and Indian. This department publishes two periodi- 
cals, the Southem Worlman and the African RepoHiiory a 
quarterly magazine of the American Colonization Society. 
Samples of each will be furnished upon application. Tlie Of- 
fice is in charge of G. W. Betts Esq. The upper floors are 
used for dormitories. 

The next buildiug is the Conservatory, built in 1883. Here 
can be obtained cut flowers in any shape desired. The Wig- 
wam built in 1876 and containing dormitories for the Indian 
boys, and the Barn built in 1878, next attract our attention. 
Here can be seen specimens of the finest breed of cattle, 
swine an poultry. In rear of the Barn, on the corner lacing 
the Main Road to Ham})ton and Old Point Comfort, is the 
Indian Training Shop, containing Carpenter Shop on the first 
floor, Harness and Tm Shops ; on the second floor the Shoe 



— 57 - 

Department. There is iilso a Paint Shop connected with the 
establishment. In an adjoining building is the Wheelwright 
and Blacksmith Shops. 

The Gymnasium and Laundry between the Training Shop 
and Bciler House, are the neNt objects of interest. We have 
now exhausted all the points of interest, save two. ''Winona" 
L()D(;e and ViR(aNiA Hall, the latter, the largest and hand- 
somest building on the grounds. The former w^e will visit 
first. It w^as built in 1882, and is intended for Indian girls 
only. We next enter Virginia Hall by an enclosed walk, 
and taking our position on the front porch we witness the 
procession of the students marching to dinner, led by the 
School Brass Band composed of 16 pieces. This is only on 
Saturdays. They file into the large dining room, and at the 
tap of the bell all is profound silence. 

At a signal, the entire school join in a vocal thanksgiving 
for the food, the impressiveness of which must be witnessed, 
in order to be appreciated. At the tap of the bell, the stu- 
dents are all seated, and do ample justice to the healthful and 
nutritious food, placed in abundance before them. 

The building is 190 feet front by 40 feet in width, with y 
wing of 100 feet running to the rear. The Bakery and Com- 
missary Department are in the basement. The teachers' 
Mud students' dining rooms are on the first floor. The sec- 
ond and third floors contain the rooms of the teachers a 1 1 
colored students. On this floor are also the teachers, and 
scholars' parlors. A large and well lighted chapel, with a 
sitting capacity of 800, is on the third floor. The funds for 
the erection of this building were the proceeds of a three 
years' singing tour of the ''Hampton Students," and was 
erected in 1874. 

The Boiler and Gas House are immediately in the rear of 
Virginia Hall, and supplies the heat for it and Wiona Lodge ; 

7 



-58- 

it also supplies gas for nil the principal buildings on the place. 
It has a capacity of 5000 lights. The bricks used in the erec- 
tion of these buildings were mostly made by the students on 
the school grounds. 

The last building which engages our attention, is 0' the en- 
trance of the grounds, and is named the /Butler" School 
House, w^hich was erected by the Gov«*rnnient dui'ing the 
war as a school for contrabands, and named after General 
Butler, who w^as then in charge of affairs. It is now used as 
a day school, raainfained by the county for six months in the 
year, and the Normal School for thrti-e months, which supplies 
the teachers. The best time for visiting this school is about 
I2;30 P. M. There are kitchen and garden drills, and singing 
from 12:30 to 1:30 P. M.. on Mondays and Wednesdays. 

The head of the institution, through W'hose able manage- 
ment it has prospered, to whose unwavering zeal much of its 
success is due, and wdiose tireless energy has. placed it upon a 
fouudation challenging the admiration and gratitude of all in- 
terested in these wards of the Nation, is the Principnl, Gen- 
eral S. (I. Armstrong, whose efforts iwe ab'ly s(^conded ])y th''' 
Treasurer, General J. F. B. Marshall, and whose care of the 
financial interests of the concern, adds no suiall quota to its 
prosperity. The Business Manager, Mr. (!, F. Briggs, super- 
intends generally the various departments, under whom are 
able and competent assistants. 

Just at the turn of the road, we see, on our left, the old Tyler 
mansion, the former residence of our ex-President; next we 
come to the Bridge spanning Hampton Greek. It ha? been 
moved a little beyond the site occupied by the old bridge ex- 
isting in the days of General Magruder, but some of the old 
posts are still standing, and can be seen at low tide. Gross- 
ing the Bridge we are in the town of Hampton, a sketeh of 
which has already been given. 



— 59 — 

The extension of the Chesapeake and Ohio Railway, from 
Richmond, through the counties of Henrico, Charles City, 
Xow Kent, James City, York, Warwick and Elizabeth City, 
to Newport News and thence to Phoebus Station, Old 
Point, opens an interesting and historical country to the visi- 
ter? at our summer resort,the Hygeia Hotel, whose enterpris- 
ing head, H. Phoebus, Esq., furnishes communication by Om- 
bus with Phoebus Station, and thus opens this repository of 
interest and beauty to all his patrons. 

Entering the train of which there are two daily, a ride of 
IVom twenty-iive minutes to halt an hour brings us to New- 
I'ort News, whose mercantile and commercial advantages are 
recognizable at a glance. A short historical sketch of it may 
not come amiss. About the beginning o( the seventeenth 
century. Captain Newport landed on the northeastern shore 
of the James River, bringing supplies and fresh colonists, to 
tlie teeble renniant of the first colony planted there. The 
spot where he landed is about nine miles from Fortress Mon- 
roe, and has ever since been known by the odd name of 
\ewports News,or, as it is now coainijnly abbreviated, New- 
port News. 

There is no where in the world a place that seems better 
fitted to be the center of an extensive commerce ; where the 
largest ships in the world could float at wliarves of ordinary 
len*ith. The point has a rounded outline, with a beautiful 
beach, over which the water ripples without a stain. Only a 
<lozen yards from the shore the natural depth is sufficient for 
vessels of looo tons burden, and increases rapidly in advanc- 
ing toward mid-channel. On the left lie Hampton Roads, 
Newport News being its upp.M* limit. In that part of 
Hampton Roads, just below Newport N(.'ws, occurred the fa- 
mous battle l)etween th(^ Merrimac and Monitor,a descrijition 
(tf which is given in our lirst chapter. 



— 6o- 

The shore of Newport News rises abruptly from the beach, 
in a small bluff about twenty-five feet high, beyond which 
lies a broad and level plateau; the elevation of which increas- 
es toward the east, until it attains an altitude of about forty 
feet. The inclination from the rear of the proposed city to 
the shore, will be very gentle, and drainage perfect. 

It has never been a place of much importance, and its ad- 
vantages, commercially and otherwise, have been but lately 
discovered and recognized. The land upon which the city 
stands, is owned by the Old Dominion Land Company, and 
about one thousand acies have been regularly laid out in 
streets and avenues, the majority of which are graded. Many 
have been the improvements in the last four years. Hand- 
some residences and stores, both brick and frame, have been 
erected, wharves where ships of the largest tonnage land and 
discharge their cargoes, a gigantic grain elevator, and numer- 
ous other improvements, give an air of mercantile import- 
ance an^ commercial prosperity, to a neighborhood, which, 
previous to the time mentioned, consisted of nothing but va- 
cant lots.. 

The importance and value of its magnificent water front 
was recognized by those who were pioneers in the opening 
up of this embryo metropolis, and was evidenced by the fact 
that before a house or store was erected, an immense cover- 
ed wharf 700 feet 6 inches long, and 132 feet wide, was built. 
"A large coal pier — 800 feet long and 50 feet wide — has 
also been erected. This has two tracks in the centre, and 
one raised on each side ; being constructed to move the cars 
by gravity. It is 30 feet high, and vessels are loaded by the 
twelve chutes from the cars. In the rear of this pier is a 
mamoth coal pocket, 12,009 feet in length, 70 feet wide, and 
35 feet high." 



— 6i — 

"There i? also another covered wharf used by the Old Do- 
minion Steamship Company. This is 800 feet lon^ and 162 
feet wide, and is used as a passenger pier. It is two stories 
high, and connected with a six-story grain elevator 385 X90 
feet, which has a capacity of 1,500,000 bushels." 

Vessels of the largest tonnage can approach these wharves 
at any time, there being: 28 feet of water at low tide. English. 
American, Brazilian, and in fact almost every description of 
merchantmen, land at the wharves and discharge their cargoes. 
A line of Brazilian steamers lands here. A park, which has 
been partially completed, is an attractive feature, and adds to 
beauty of the city. 

The unequalled natural advantages need not be dwelt up- 
on ; the harbor on which it is situated, being the finest in the 
world, and the only one in the United States which can be safe- 
ly entered without a pilot. There is no bar at the entrance of 
Chesapeake Bay, and a dozen navies could ride there abreast. 
The News is but fifteen miles from the open sea, while New 
Yorkislwenty, Boston about fifty, Philadelphia about one hun- 
dred, and Baltimore one hundred and sixty. These consider- 
ations afford a basis for judgment, and prove conclusively, 
this spot in our country destined to have a glorious history 
in the future of our nation. 

Continuing our railway journey, about 17 miles from New- 
port News, we reach Lee Hall in York County, five miles to 
the left of which is Yorktown, famous both as being the scene 
of the surrender of Cornwallis, and also the centenniafin 
I'S.Si. A memorial colunm, commemorative of the gnvat 
event, recently ordered by Congress, is in process of erec- 
tion. 

Nine miles further on we come to Williamsburg, contain- 
ing many interesting relics of Revolutionary times, as well as 
historic reminiscences of the early history of tlie colonies. 



— 62 — 

This place, called "Middle Plantations," when first settled by 
colonists from Jamestown, in 1632, is now a quaint, unique 
town, of 1200 or 1500 inhabitants — quiet, dreamy and bear- 
ing about its very atmosphere an air of repose, pregnant, 
however, with historic interest. Suggestions of "days that 
were," meet us on every side, and seem to render even its 
dwellings and thoroughfares, ancient and antiquated. Relics 
of the pomp and glory of King and Crown, long since depart- 
ed, still exist even in the names oi streets, and such names 
as, "Duke of Gloucester," "Queen," "Henry," and "Palace," 
seem to carry us back to the days, when good Queen Bess, 
George IV, and their compeers, reigned in regal splendor, and 
exercised their sway over our fair territory. 

In 1698, the seat of government was removed here by 
George Nicholson, after the Jail and Statehouse at Jamestown, 
had been destroyed by fire; Williamsburg, being "healthier, 
more convenient, and free from moschetoes." Here the roy- 
al functionary held his mimic court, small but brilliant, and 
gay with the court costumes of the period — especially dur- 
ing the sessions of the House of Burgesses, when the streets 
were alive with chariots and coaches of the nobility and gen- 
try, with cavahers magnificently mounted, and when every 
house displayed a profuse and costly hospitality. 

Interesting and historic remnants still remain. On Glou- 
cester street, is the site of the old Capitol, burnt in 1746, 
rebuilt and again burnt in 1832. A few years later, a female, 
college was erected on the same spot, and that too, was de- 
stroyed during the late war. Diagonally across the street 
may still be seen the old Chancery- Office, now a private 
residence, remodelled, but containing the English bricks and 
timbers which composed the original structure. Baleif/h Tav- 
ern, the scene of many a midnight revel, and containing com- 
mittee rooms of patriots, wlio within their walls discussed the 



-63- 

iiitorosts of tho foeblo colonists, is now used as a store-house. 
Here R'cliard Henry Leo originat(Ml tl^e plan of corresponding 
roii:mit[(^es among the colonies. Higher up the street is the 
idt^ntical magazine from which, in 1775, Lord Dunmore re- 
moved the powder belonging to the colony, and stored ,t on 
Ihe Magdalen sloop-of-war, an act which roused the indigna- 
tion of the country, almost as much as the first shot at Fort 
Sumter, in 1861. It is now used as a stable, and the boys 
call it The Old Powder Horn. The Colonial Court House, 
the site of Dunmore's palace, the old Masonic Hall, Tazeivell 
Hall, and especially the ivied church, built in 1680, of im- 
ported bricks, with its mural tablets, and its church-yard filled 
with anticjue tombstones with their queer inscriptions, will 
alibi-d a fund of interest for the traveler, and give him food 
(■( r abundant mental reflection. Here also is the seat of Wil- 
liam and Mary College, chartered February 19th, 1693, three 
times i)urned, (in 1705, 1859, and 1862,) and it awakens a 
deeper interest, and excites mow. curiosity, than all the other 
1 1 ildings combined. From this institution, four signers of the 
I (}claration of rndependence, three Presidents of the United 
S ates, one Chief-Justice, two United States Attorney-Generals, 
twenty members of the United States House of Representa- 
tives, fifteen United States Senators, seventeen Governors of 
V rginia and other states, thirty-seven judges, of the United 
States and Virginia, and Lieutenant General Winfield Scott of 
the United States Army, received their degrees. The pre- 
sent structure contains the original walls, so often tested by 
fire. The Eastern Lunatic Asylum, in Williamsburg, is the 
oldest institution of its kind in America, having been founded 
in 1773. 

The battle of Williamsburg, was fought May 5th, 1862, be- 
tween McCIellan's advance and Johnston's rear guard, under 
Lon^strjei, and Wi»s claimed as a victory by both sides, serv- 



-64- 

ing as a temporary check in the advance on Richmond. Be- 
tween Oriana and Newport News, two miles to the left of the 
road, is Big Bethel, the scene of the first important battle af^er 
the fall of Sumter in 1861. 

In the neighborhood of Williamsburg is the site of James- 
town, a spot of more than , ordinary interest, the only rel- 
ic of which is a ruined church tower. Unless measures are 
taken to preserve it, this too will soon disappear, and naught 
but water, cover a tract of country, brinmiing full of historic 
recollections, having been the scene of so much endu- 
rance and so many victories in the history of our forefa • s. 

Two engagements occurred near Jamestown just before the 
battle of Yorktown — the first, on June 25th, 1781, between 
Lieut. Col. Butler, of the Pennsylvania hne, and Lieut. Col. 
Simcoe, of the British army, resulting in a drawn battle, the 
former supposing that he w^as only attacking the rear-guari 
of the enemy, wdien, in fact, he w^as engaging the main body 
of Gornw^allis' army. Night saved LaFayette from destruc- 
tion. 

Beyond the Ghickahominy lies the county of New Kent, 
also historic ground. At the residence of a Mr. Ghamber- 
layne, in this comity, Washington met the Widow Gurtis. 
whom he aftewards married at the White-House, oh the 
Panumkey rive'r, where McGlellan had his base of supplies in 
1862. On Wall Greek, in New Kent, is the Mysterious Stone 
House, of doubtful origin, but supposed to have been built 
by Gapt. John Smith as a fort. It is perhaps, the most curi- 
ous historic relic in Virginia, an enigma at best. 

We next enter Gharles Gity Gounty, one of the origin \\ 
shires into which Virginia was divided, in 1634. Though 
shorn of its original proportions, it is redolent of Golonial and 
Revolutionary history, and enjoys thejeputation of being the 



-65- ■ 

birthpliU'o of two presidents of the United States— viz., Wm. 
Henry Harrison and John Tyler. The Hithers of these presi- 
dents were as ilhistrious as their sons. Benjamin Harrison, 
a memlDer of the Continental Congress, would have been pres- 
id.Mitof that body after the death of his brother-in-law, Peyton 
Randolph, had he not yielded in favor of John Hancock, and 
declined to allow his name to be put in nomination. It was 
Benjamin Harrison, who, in July of that year, reported the 
Declaration of Independence framed by Thomas Jefferson. 
In 1772 he became Governor of Virginia, and was accounted 
one of the best the State ever had. John Tyler, Sr., (father 
of the President), a leading patriot of the Revolution, was 
elected Governor in 1808, and afterwards was United States 
District Judge. President Tyler was born on James river five 
miles below Berkely, the birthplace of President Harrison. 

Passing from Charles City county, and crossing the Chick- 
ahojuiiiy at the Long Bridge, now Roxbury Station, we enter 
Heiu-ico County. This station is not far from the spot where 
Capt. John Smith was captured by the Indians. Many points 
of interest during the memorable campaign of 1864 — viz., 
Bethesda Church, Second Cold Harbor, Fort Harrison, and the 
Dutch Gap Can-il, are within easy horseback rides of stations 
along the line of the Chesapeake and Ohio Rail Road. 

Within easy distance of the railway, are the scenes of the 
famous Seven Bay's Battles Around Richmond, beginning with 
Mechanicsville, June 26th, 1862 ; Gaines's Mill and Cold Har- 
bor June 27th ; Savage Station June 29th ; Frazier's Farm, 
June 30th, and ending at Malvern Hill, July 1st, 1862. The 
details of these battles, long since fiimiliar to every American 
school boy, render their names topicts of interest, and throw 
around them a halo of historic importance which must ever 
make them objects of research, and points of never failing 
attraction tu the traveler. McClellan was driven to tlie shel- 

8 



— 66- 

ter of his gunboats at Harrison's Landing, on the James, and 
the capitol of the Confederacy was temporarily saved. 

It is related that at Frazier's Farm, or Glendale, as it is 
some times called, Stonewall Jackson, exhausted with loss of 
sleep, for the first and only time failed to respond to Gen. 
Lee's order, and did not cross the Ghickahominy, thus en- 
abling McClellan to rally at Malvern Hill, which lies two miles 
to the right of the road. The Confederates here met with a 
severe repulse. From Harrison's Landing, or Westover, Mc- 
Clellan embarked to join Pope in Northern Virginia. 

About seven miles from Richmond, at Fort Lee Station, 
is the battle-field of Fair Oaks or Seven Pines, fought May 
31st, 1862, in which Gen. Joseph E. Johnston was wounded, 
an accident which brought Gen. R. E. Lee to the front, and 
gave the army of Northern Virginia its renowned commander. 
Continuing our journey, on the right of Church-Hill Tunnel, 
lies Powhatan, the residence in former years of the Mayo fam- 
ily — a spot named for the Indian Chief, the father of Poca- 
hontas, who here held his court. Here too, it is said, the 
rescue of Smith took place, and the story whether mythical or 
otherwise, is dear to the hearts of all Virginians. A few miles 
further, and we dash into the city of Richmond, the Keystone 
of the Rebellion, and holding within its limits a wealth of 
historic recollections, which to the antiquarian, affords a fund 
of useful and entertaining information. 

Having thus given our traveler an insight into the sur- 
roundings of Fort Monroe, we will make a retrograde move- 
ment, and come back to Old Point which having discussed 
in its geographical and geological outlines, we will enter the 
Fort itself. 

Old Point Comfort, is situated at the extremity of a level, 
sandy beach, from the southern end of the western shore 



-67- 

of the Chesapeake Bay. Its geographical position is, 37°2' 
North Latitude, and 76° 12' West Longitude, from the merid- 
ian of Greenwich. The peninsula is almost entirely surround- 
ed by water. The exception to this, is a strip of beach, some 
400 yards wide, which runs to the north and looks eastward. 

Over this strip of beach, during heavy easterly storms, with 
a full spring tide, the sea washes, rendering at such times, 
the peninsula, an island. On the east, northeast, and south- 
east, are the waters of the Chesapeake Bay. On the south 
and southwest, are those of Mill Greek, which empties into, 
and is fed from, the Hampton Roads. The connections of 
the peninsula with the mair^ land, are by the narrow strip of 
land above referred to, and by a bridge over Mill Creek, ap- 
proached by an artificial causeway, some half mile in length. 

The fort is built at the extremity of the peninsula and com- 
mands the entrance to Hampton Roads, into which empties 
t!ie water of the James, Elizabeth and Nansemond rivers. 
The waters on all sides of the fort are salt, augmented or 
diminished in intensity by the fresh water floods coming 
dow^n the James river; though at all times, and in all tides, 
they are highly saline. The country between the point of 
the peninsula and York river, distant twenty miles north, 
and thence across to the James, is cut up by numerous small 
streams, which are more or less brackish, as the rains are 
profuse or scanty. 

These small streams all communicate with the Chesapeake, 
Hampton Roads, or the James. The land upon which the 
fort is built is some four feet above mean high-water mark. 
Salt marshes are on the northeast of the fort, but these seem 
to have but little, if any effect, upon its sanitary condition. 

The geological formation of the peninsula u})on which tlxj 
fort is built, is ocean sand resting upon marl impregnated clay. 
Boring to tlie d('|>tli of 8dd feet, within the inclosure of the 



— 68 — 

fort, has shown nothing but sand, lying upon marl impreg- 
nated clay, Avith here and there small veins of sharp bluish 
sand ot fme grain, admirably adapted for polishing and 
grinding metals. The country on the main land is flat, and 
there are no hills within a radius ot eight or ten miles. Tiie 
soil to the north of Mill Greek, which bounds the reservation 
in that direction, is aluminous and quite productive, giv^ing, 
under favorable circumstances, abundant yields of wheat, 
corn, oats, potatoes, as well as cf all the market vegetables. 
There are few portions of the country more suitable for truck- 
ing farms than the vicinity of Fort Monroe, there being no 
rocks of any description in the neighborhood. 

The whole country to the north and north w^ost of the fort, 
is underlaid by extensive beds of marl, at depths varying 
from 20 to 50 feet. The water procurable from wells, on 
the mainland, is. in consequence, quite unpalatable, and re- 
course has therefore to be made to cisterns for a supply of 
drinking water. All, previous to the war of secession, who 
possessed the means, erected them for the purpose of collect- 
ing rain-water. On the Chesapeake Bay beach, distant some 
2000 yards to the north, are heavy sand hills, and on and 
around these are found live oaks as well as the southern pine. 
This is said to be the most northern position in the United 
States at which the live oak is to be met with. 

In the gardens of the fort are to be found numerous fig 
trees, which flourish exceedingly well, though the fruit crop 
of them cannot be relied upon, as the late frosts of spring oft- 
entimes destroy them. The forests and woodlands in the 
neighborhood, on the mainland, furnish the varieties of forest 
trees, bushes and shrubs usually met with in the middle re- 
gion of the United States. 

The waters surrounding the fort are well stocked with fish, 
principally rock, sheephead, bay mackerel, trout, white perch, 



-69- 

sun, spot, hog, chub, green floumiers, moss-bunkers, and, 
toad. Porpoises are quite nunurous, and white shark not 
scarce. Crabs, both hard and soft, largely abound. Oys- 
ters cover the banks where the water does not run too fast 
and the bottom is not sand; they are highly prized in all the 
markets. Those growing in Lynnhaven Bay, are by many 
considered to be the most deUcious procurable in any part of 
the country. The birds are those common to the water as 
well as to the land ; in the immediate vicinity of the fort only 
the tame kinds are to be met with. Gulls, apparently of many 
varieties, are constantly flying over the water. 

The climate of Old Point is comparatively mild. The 
winters are open, and the thermometer, except in very rare 
iases, does not fall below 12° F. The duration of the cold 
l)eriods seldom passes seventy-two hours, when the cold 
snaps give way and the mercury indicates an increase of tem- 
perature. The cold is, however, felt more perceptibly than in 
those regions where it is continuous. A continued frigid at- 
mosphere to which the system becomes tempered is Jiot only 
healthy but pleasant, but the fickleness of the Southern at- 
mosphere in this section, is one great drawback to an other- 
wise almost faultless climate, and the system is far more 
susceptible to the influence of a decrease of temperature than 
it is in the more ncrthern latitudes. There is but little snow 
here, and that which falls remains upon the ground but a 
short time. 

The summers are long and hot. The summer heat com- 
mences in the early part of May, and continues until the 
latter part of September. During the months of June, July 
and August the heat is oppressive, and, were it not for the 
sea breeze, which commences to blow about 9 o'clock in the 
morning, would be almost unendurable. Within the walls of 
the fort the heat is much more oppressive than without them, 



— 70 — 

as they serve to obstruct, in a great measure, the free range 
of the breeze which nriay be blowing. When on the beach 
or anywhere outside the temperature may be quite pleasant, 
within the inclosure it will be most oppressive. At night, 
however, the reverse holds, as a damp, murky atmosphere 
arises from the ground, imparting a chilly sensationwith a feel- 
ing of moisture. There is, at night, a difference of two or 
three degrees in the temperature inside and outside of the 
fort. 

During the winter season too, the temperature lowers 
within the walls, and the ground is much damper than when 
it is exposed to the unrestrained influence of wind and sun. 
The mean annual temperature of 1867 was 58.i9°F. warmest 
day of the year was July 6. when mercury indicated 90° F. 
The coldest day was January 19, when the mercury at 7 o'clock 
A. M., indicated 14° F. The mean annual temperature of 
1 868 was 58.30° F. The warmest day was July 15, when 
the mercury indicated 92° F. The coldest day was Decem- 
ber 25, when the mercury at 7 o'clock A. M., indicated 19° F. 
The amount of rain wich fell in 1867 was 64.26 inches. The 
greatest monthly amount of rain during the year was in Au- 
gust, when 11.40 inches fell. The amount of rain which fell 
in 1868 was 44.41 inches. The greatest monthly amount of 
rain in 1868 was in July, when 6.94 inches fell. The barom- 
eter ranges from 29.25 inches to 30.60 inches, which are the 
extremes reached here, as indicated by the record of four years, 
and afford a criterion upon which to base a judgment of the 
variations of heat and cold to which the extremes of the cli- 
mate extend. Frequently the spring is much latf^r than in 
other climates, vegetation very often not commencing till late 
in April, though sometimes prior to this time there are warmer 
periods sufficiently long to cause a budding and incipient blos- 
soming of the fruit trees, which are subsequently blighted by 



— 71 — 

severe frost. 

The prevalinj^ winds of spring and summer are southeast 
and southwest; those of fall and winter, east, northeast, and 
northwest. The easterly winds are the severest in February 
and March, and with them come diseases of the throat and 
lungs to both adults and infants. With the latter croup is 
most common in February and early March, when the winds 
chilled by the icebergs on the bi^mks, continue blowing from 
the northeast for several successive days. 

Having thus given in a general way the facts attending a 
journey to Fort Monroe, and detailed some of the phases to 
be met with by the traveler we will in our next chapter con- 
duct him through the Fort itself, and relate in minutiae the 
(lata relating thereto. 



CHAPTER HI. 



Fort Monroe. 

First among the fortresses which guard our Nation's coast, 

Monroe in mighty grandeur stands ; King of all the rest. 

Laved on all sides by its moated waters' ceaseless tiow. 

Over crystal Chesapeake , a sileat sentinel 

It stands, Columbia's faithful guard, in whom she trusts secure. 

Fort Monroe, the geographical position of which has been 
given, and whose geological formation has been treated of 
elsewiiere, was projected, with others, to cover the interior 
navigation, between Chesapeake Bay and the Southern States : 
to secure the roadstead and point, serving as the connect- 
ing link between the middle and southern coast as a naval 
place of arms, whence that arm of the public may operate, 
in defence of commerce and the public establishments at 
Norfolk, and such as were contemplated in James River : 
also to prevent an enemy making a lodgement in the direc-. 
tion of Norfolk. 

Various Boards, both Military and Naval, had made these 
points the subject-matter of reports, ever since the close of the 
war with Great Britain, which closed in 1815. Experiences 
in that struggle, having taught them the importance of proper 
sea-coast defences, the attention of the Government was called 
to the fact, and accordingly on the i8th of January, 18 17, the 
Secretary of the Navy transmitted to the Senate, opinions of 
the Board for the selection of a site for a naval depot and de- 
fensive works on the Chesapeake Bay. 



Tho Senate, by resolutions, dated respectively, Feby. 13th 
1 817, and April 2ot]i, icSiS, directed the President to cause 
the survey of Hampton Roads, and York River, together with 
some other localities, with -a view ot* ascertaining the practica- 
bility of defending the same by fortitications. In pursuance 
o( this instruction, Brigadier Genenils Swift and Bernard. 
Colonels Armistead and McKee, of the Engineers, were ap- 
pointed commissioners, to co-operate with Captains Warring- 
ton and Elliott of the Navy, for the purpose of examining and 
surveying Hampton Roads and York River, and reporting how 
far it was practicable to defend said Roads and river,by forti- 
tications. 

The reports of the Boards were made in 1819 and 1820, 
and were voluminous and exhaustive, and embraced the in- 
ception of the present system of sea-coast defenses of the 
United States. 

It is said to be traditional in the records of the Engineer . 
Department, that Fort Monroe was planned by Gen. Simon ^ \ 
B(Tnard, of the U. S. Engineers, formerly an officer under 
Xapoleon I, in the imperial x\rmy of France. The drawings 
were made by Captain W. T. Poussin, of the Topographical h 
Engineers, and Acting Aid to Gen. Bernard. In a report of 
a Board of Officers, on the subject of Military defenses. 
May loth. 1840, an apology is made for its magnitude. 

Materials having been accumulated at Old Point Comfort, 
Va., during the fall nnd winter of 1818, the construction of the 
Fort was actually commenced in March (819, under Major \i 
Chas. Gratiot, Corps of Engineers ; and from 1822, until Feb- '( 
ruary 1824, all able-bodied soldiers, serving on the Atlantic 
coast, who were sentenced by Courts-Martial to hard labor, 
for periods exceeding six months, were employed on the 
work. 

It was named "Fort Monroe," in honor of James Monroe 

o 



— 74 — 

wlio was the President of tlie United States, when its con- 
struction was commenced. The first appropriation bill, in 
which the Fort is specifically mentioned, is that of March. 
1 82 1. Previous to this date appropriations had been made 
in general, without designating particular works. 

The Post was first occupied by Battery '"G," 3rd U. S. Ar- 
tillery, June 1823, Captain M. P. Lomax, commanding. In 
February 1824, the Garrison was increased by Batteries "G,'" 
''D," and ''I," 4th Artillery, Captain B. K. Pierce, 4th Artillery, 
assuming command. About this lime the Artillery School. 
then known as "The Artillery School of Practice." was estab- 
lished, and is no\v in existence, known as the ''United States 
Artillery School." The School has, however, been tempora- 
rily discontinued, at various times, when special exigencies. 
demanded the services of the troops elsewhere. 

During the Civil War, 1861-5, the Post was garrisoned by 
one regiment of Heavy Artillery, 1800 men. Several expe- 
ditions have used this Post for a rendezvous and starting 
point. Gen. Sherman's expedition to South Carolina, sailed 
from this Point, Oct. 28th, 1861. Gen. Burnside's expedi- 
tion to North Carolina, also sailed in January 1862. General 
Butler's expedition to Hattcras Inlet, in August 1861, and to 
Fort Fisher in December 1864, also had this place for their 
starting point. General Terry's expedition in January 1865. 
was fitted out at Fort Monroe. The Post was used as a base 
of supplies for the Army and Navy, operating on the line of 
the James River, and also along the coasts of North and South 
Carolina, during the entire period ot the War. 

Major Gen. Benj. F. Butler, commanded the Military De- 
partment of which Fort Monroe was the Headquarters, from 
May 22nd, 1 861, to Aug. 17th 1861. He was succeeded by 
Major Gen. John E. Wool ; who was followed, June 2nd. 1862, 
by Major Gen, John A. Dix, who commanded until July i8th, 



/5 



1863 ; llion folloNVCMl Major Gen. Jolin G. Foster to Nov. 1 ith 
1863 ; iMajor C.en. B. F. Butlei- lo Dec. 24tli 1864, and Major 
Ceil. E. O. C. Onl lo April 1865, 

The Post tlien became the Headquarters of the 5th Regi- 
ment of Artillery, until Nov. 13th, 1867, when the Artillery 
Sfhool was again established, brevet Major Gen. Wm. F. 
Bai-iy connnanding, under wliose able management, the 
Sc]ku)1 flourished, until March, .1877, when he was succeed- 
ed by brevet Major Gen. Geo. W. Getty, who retained com- 
mand of the Post, until the fall of 1883, when he retired from 
the Army, and was succeeded by brevet Major Gen. John G. 
Tidball, the present commandant. 

It may be interesting to note that the land included in the 
area ot Fort Mom'oe, 252 acres, was ceded to the United States 
l)y the State of Virginia, March ist, 1821, and convi^ed to 
the former, by deed from the Governor, recorded in the 
Gourt ofElizalieth City County, Dec. 12th 1838. There- 
cords of Elizabeth City County were destroyed by tire, at tlie 
burning of Hampton, during the Rebellion, 1861-5. The 
title, however, is indisputable. 

Mill Creek Bridge, which connects Old Point with the 
mainland, was deeded to the United States, by the Hampton 
River and Mill Creek Toll Bridge Company, Nov. istli, 1838. 
About 14 acres of land, on the right bank of Mill Creek, op- 
posit*^ Fort Monroe, were conveyed to lh(; United States by 
J. A. Bradford, Feb. 1 2th 1 844. The Hygeia Hotel was first 
authorized June 25th 1868, and several times grants and 
privileges have l)een made, until it has reached its present 
mannuoth proportions. Wm. H. Kimberly's Storehouse, au- 
thorized, March 1 6th, 1868. Adams Express Company Of- 
fice, January 26th, 1880. Roman Catholic Chapel, June 8th, 
i860. Ice House and Billiard Hall of Wm. Baulch, author- 
hou February 26th. 1879. 



-76- 

The Fort is built in the shape of an irregular hexagon, five 
sides of which are nearly equal ; the southeast front be- 
ing as long as any of the other two. Each side has what is 
called a curtain, in other words, that part of the rampart or 
parapet, between the projecting portions, or bastions. These 
are so arranged that a fire from the salient angle, will protect 
the water front, in conjunction with the fire from the curtain, 
and the corner angles of each bastion, producing a cross fire, 
will protect the fosse, which surrounds the fort on jdl sides. 

it has an average depth of about 8 feet, and is bricked for 
about one-third of the distance from the foundation walls, for 
the purpose of preventing the tide water from washing them 
away. A main sew^er has been lately built running through 
the entire length of the Fort, and automatic flood gates placed 
on the north and east side of the moat, closing when the tide 
begins to ebb, and allowing no outlet for it, except through 
the sewer, is supposed to be powerful enough to carry off all 
the refuse matter of the Garrison. Branch sewers to each 
Officer's cjuarters, and from the Barracks, give a perfect net- 
work of drains, and form an admirable system of sewerage, 
and, when perfected, will C(mtribute, in no small degree to 
the health of the Garrison. The sewer empties into the 
channel in Mill Creek. 

The Moat is bridged at the three principal entrances of the 
Fort, termed the North, East, and West or Main Sally ports, 
and at the south-west, is a small bridge leading to what is 
termed the Postern Gate. 

The area included within the counter-scarp or outside wall 
of the ditch, is 80 acres, and the remaining 252 acres include 
the grave yard, redoubt, and the rest of the reservation, ex- 
tending to Mill Greek. Entering by the Main Gate, from the 
road leading from the Wharf, the first objects which attract 
our attention are the Guard Rooms, of which there are two. 



— n — 

One used forthe confinement of prisoners, and the other for the 
use of the Guard. They are provided with bunks, gun-racks 
and all tiuit go to make the necessary provisions for the sen- 
tries while on duty as sentinels. There are also four ordi- 
nary cells connected wilh one, and a dark cell connected with 
the other room. Besides these rooms, there are still two oth- 
ers, one of which is used by the' Officer of the Guard, and in 
his absence, by the Non-commissioned Officers. The other 
is used for a tool room, although both, should any exigency 
demand it, are capable ol being used as Guard rooms. 

We pass the sentry, who, patrolling his beat, either at a 
-right shoulder arms*' or, "sui)port," gives no intimation eith- 
er by word or look, that he is aware of our presence, unless 
we unwittingly trespass, or disobey his orders, when he will 
(Quickly inform us of the fact, and we see on our right a two 
stui y frame building, the second story of which is a photo- 
graph gallery. 

Here are prepared views from dilferent stand points, of the 
Fort, photographic maps of surveying tours, and, when de- 
sired, photographs of any person can be taken. Each Officer 
passing a term of two years at the School, goes under instruc- 
tion in this branch, and all the accompaniments of a fh\st class 
Gallery are to be found here. The advances lately made in 
l^hotography, whereby instaneous impressions can be taken, 
is availed of, and the liberality which furnishes first class in- 
struments, and all their accompanying pharaphernalia, con- 
tributes in no small degree to the prosperity and usefulness 
of the School. It is amusing to see a picture of the Battalion 
in ''double time," for instance, with one foot raised in the air, 
or a skirmish-line with a soldier with his foot just ready to be 
planted, but his ''physog" taken just at that moment, leaving 
him in that position. However, they are specimens of the 
advanced stage of the Science, and show how well and at)ly. 



-78- 

the discipline and the usefulness ol the Schoul is preserved 
and enlarged, and made to tell in the instruction of the 
future guides of the Nation in Military matters. 

The lower floor of this building is used for an Officers' In- 
struction Room, also for the storing of the Surveying Instru- 
ments when not in use. Just across from, and facing this 
building, is another fram3 struciture. This is the Officers' 
Library. Here may be found valuable works on Military 
subjects in our own and other languages. Maps, r-^cords of 
the late war, important data on almost any subject pertain- 
ing to arms, can hero be found grouped, together with histo- 
ries of various descriptions, encyclopaedias, biograi)hies, the 
standard magazines ot the day, pictorial histories of the Re- 
bellion, and, in fact, any and all the works which go to make 
up a well assorted Military Library, of reference, interest, and 
instruction. 

As we leave this building, we see a dra])-colored brick 
structure, which lay on our left as we we entered the fort, 
which is the Post Hospital. The lower floor is the Dispen- 
sary, whi('h contains a judicious and abundant selection of 
drugs and medicines, and the second and third stories, ron- 
taining Wards for the sick. Here "Uncle Sam's boys," when 
they become disabled or temporarily ill, can be taken care ot, 
and every arrangement made for their interest. Thanks to 
the salubrity and healthfulness of the climate, tlie health of 
the Garrison generally is good, and the services of the Sur- 
geon, are not often called for severe cases. A Surgeon and 
Assistant Surgeon, both residing within the Garrison, render 
medical aid, when called upon. 

After having looked at the Hospital, until our curiosity is 
satisfied, and passed the Matron's, quarters which vvith the 
Hospital Kitchen lie on the left and rear of it, we will next 
visit a small brick building in close proximity, which contains 



— /9 — 

the Enlisted Mens' Library and Instruction Rooms. Here may 
bo found between 3000 and 4000 of the leading Novels of the 
day, some in the Seaside, Lakeside, and LovelTs Library, but 
the majority of them, bound. All the leading dailies, tri- 
weeklis and weeklies, in tlie newspaper world, will be found 
on its tables, while Harper's, Frank Leshe, The Century, and 
otlici' Uiagazines of the liighest literary merit, regale the lovers 
f)f fine reading, of whom there are quite a number. The Li- 
brary is open from fatigue call in the morning, which is from 
6.30 to 7.30 and 7.45 according to the Season, until 12 M., 
and from i.oo P. M. until first signal for i)arade, about half 
an hour before sundown. The Officers' Library, termed, 
•'The Artillery School Library," is open from 8 A. M., until 
12 M., and from i.oo P. M. until fust signal for parade. 

Looming in the foreground as we leave this building, are 
the Barracks, a fine two story brick structure, on the wings, 
and three stories, in the centre building. These are the 
quarters for the Enlisted men, and more commodious and 
more perfectly arranged quarters, few, if any other posts, can 
boast. A veranda, running the full length of each wing, on 
both first and second floors, adds a finish to the front of the 
struiture, as well as affording a pleasant place for the soldiers 
to sit. The Barracks contain six sets of Company Quarters, 
each, a fac-simile of the rest. On the lower floor are the Of- 
fice, Ston^ Room, ist Sergeant's Room, Wash and Bath 
j-iooms, and ~)ay Room, on one side of the Hall, and Dining 
Room, Kitchen, Sleeping Room for the Cooks, and Store 
Room for the rations, on the other side. 

On the second floor, to whicli we ascend by an ii'on stair- 
case are two dormitories, each capable of accommodating 30 
men comfoj'tably, and should necessity recpiire it, more could 
!)(' crowded in. They are provided with iron bunks, and cot- 
ton mattresses and pillows. Shelves ranging round the rooms 



— 8o — 

afford ample accommodations for the clothing, wliile a plenti- 
ful sprinkling of windows, makes the barrack-room light and 
cheerful. 

The building is heated throughout by steam, two registers 
being placed in each dormitory, two in each hallway on the 
first floor, one in the Office, Day Room, ist Sergeant's Room 
Wash anl Bath Rooms, and they keep the Quarters comfort- 
ably heated with a good head of steam on. The steam is 
supplied from the Engine House, a l)rick building, lying im- 
mediately in rear of the Quarters. A verandah, on the sec- 
ond floor, runs the entire length of both wings in rear. Both 
salt and fresh water are supplied to the Barracks, by means 
of the New Water Works, to be completed during the coming 
Summer. The Main Building contains on the ground floor, 
on one side of the sally-port, one long room, which is util- 
ized as the Post Barber Shop, and on the other side two st;iir 
cases leading to the Court Martial Room on the second floor, 
from the front, of the building, and the other, from the rear, 
leading to what is termed the Tank Room : this contains three 
large zinc tanks, front which a supply of fresh water is ob- 
tained for the Bath Rooms and Kitchen. 

On the third floor of this building is the Amusement Hall, 
or ''Hop Room, " as it is generally termed, where hops, the- 
atrical performances, and, in fact, amusements of all kind were 
held, until recently. Not long since its use was interdicted, 
the floor being condemned as weak, and too unsafe to risk 
dancing on it. 

The New Water Works, but partially completed at present, 
are intended to supply the Garrison with both salt and fresh 
water. The mains for both are laid one on top of the 
other. Fire plugs at convenient distances, will enable the 
water to be thrown high enough to cover the top of the high- 
est structure in the Fort, and so will prove an invaluable auxil- 



— 8i — 

iai y in case of fire. The water will l^e procured from the Gov- 
eniinent farm, at what is known as ''Slabtown/'' The pipes 
for the same are laid across Mill ('reek, and tlie water will bo 
diawn from the well by a suction pump. 

The I(os> rvoir wiii be placed over the North Cate, and will 
have a capacity of about 50,000 j^^allons. The water will have 
a fall of about 60 feet. 

Leaving the ^hun Building, and taking the main walk, we 
see on our left the Ordnance Store House, a two story biick 
building, containing every species of Ordnance Stores, in use 
in the Artillery. The lower floor is used also, for storing the 
Hotchkiss and Catling guns, of which there are fine specimens 
al the Post. Next we see two drab colored buildings, called 
-Knox How," so named by the Commandant at the time of 
their erection, the late Gen. Wm. F. Barry, in honor of the 
Sec'y of War, Hon. Henry Knox. Tliey are residences of 
Officers, having passed which, we come to the Commandant's 
dwelling house. This is a very fine structure, being ap- 
proached by a broad flight of steps from both front and rear. 
Ample grounds surround the dwelling, while a garden and 
Green House?, add their attractive features to its grace and 
beauty A garden, in charge of a soldier, who spends his time 
in furthering the growth of tli" ornamental and useful in the 
vegetat)le and botanical world, lies in rear of the dwelling. It 
is a very ple;isant residence. 

Walking a few steps further we come to the Headquarters of 
the United States Artillery School. These are very ordin- 
ary franiQ structures, erected by Gen. Butler during the War. 
Tli(> first building contains the Adjutant's, Sergeant Major's 
and Printing Office. The second contains the Commandant's 
Office. The Printing Office well repays a visit, as liere may 
be seen in their different stages tlie printing and binding of a 

10 



— 82 — 

great many of tho text-books, used in the School; all the 
Lithographing- of the School is also done here, which with its 
sister science Photography, has done so much for, and occu- 
pies such a prominent place in, Military Science of the day. 

For maps, plates for text-books, and in fact everywhere it 
can be utilized to advantage, lithography is made use of, and. 
be it spoken to the credit of the rank and file of the Army, all 
the work is performed by Enlisted Men. The specimens furn- 
ished of their skill, proving them, able to cope in their sever- 
al departments, with mechanics at large in the world. Until 
recently a very lively little sheet, termed, '' Fort Monroe Ga- 
zette," a five column four page paper, published semi-monthly, 
was issued from this same office, and had quite aljirge circu- 
lation in the neighborhood; the entire publishing and editor- 
ial force of which, was composed of Enlisted Men. 

Leaving Headquarters, and continuing our promenade, we 
pass a double brick house, with beautiful verandas running 
in front of both first and second floors. These dwellings were 
formerly the property of the Ordnance Department, but when 
the Arsenal was removed entirely outside of the ^ort, thesf 
buildings were turned over to the Post, and are now used as 
Officers' Quarters. . 

Passing these, our next object of interest is the Post Chapel. 
'' Church of the Centurion." It is a frame building 70x27 
feet inside, besides a recess chancel 19x16 feet on one end. 
and a porch 10x9 feet on the other end. It was erected af- 
ter plans made by the late Richard Upjolin, a church archi- 
tect in New York City. It was commenced in 1857, and fin- 
ished in 1858. The most active part in its erection, was taken 
by Lieut. McAllister of the Ordnance ; now Colonel. The 
Colonel intended to show by this action, his recognition of 
the Divine mercy toward him in preserving his life in an ex- 
plosion in a laboratory, in which he and two other Officers, 



-8,3 — 

\vi»re at work. They were killod and his own life preserved. 

■"Jlie chapel was at tirst furnished w'ith rough pine benches, 
and neither chancel nor chapel furniture, expressed aught 
of the taste of the worshipers, or was in consistency 
with the idea which must always make itself felt in an ap- 
preciative mind, that a house dedicated to the w^orship of 
God, should express, in all its appointments, the reverence 
and sanctity felt by its communicants, and their acknowledge- 
ment of the same, by their liberality in its appropriate adorn- 
ment. In consistency with this sentiment, the present chap- 
lain. Rev. Osgood E. Herrick, U. S. A. in conjunction with 
his estimable wife, assisted by the ladies of the church, inau- 
gurated Fairs, which were held at the Hygeia Hotel, and 
raised subscriptions by this means, and others of a like char- 
acter, for the i)urpose of furnishing in a proper manner, our 
l^ost Chapel. 

Many articles of ornament and use were manufactured, 
and among them all, none, perhaps, attracted more attention, 
or met with a quicker sale, than negro nurses in miniature, 
wilh an infant in their arms, negro men-of-war sailors, and 
«otton ])icke]s, most of these being manufactured by Mrs. 
Merrick herself. The result speaks for itself, in the improved 
appearance of the (lha))(*l to-day. 

Handsome black walnut pews, take the place of the un- 
sightly pine benches. Magnificent stained glass windows^ 
(*ight of I hem memorial, one, dedicated to the late Gen. W. 
F. Barry, being particularly worthy of mention, take the place 
of the old ones. A handsome carpet covering the floor, and 
rich chancel furniture, combine to make this little house of 
worship, a model of neatness and elegance. A beautifully 
i)uilt, and sweetly toned Organ, from the Arm of Jardine & 
Sons of New York, furnishes appropriate music, and charms 
.dl who hear it. The Choir of the chapel is composed entire- 



- 84 — 

ly of enlisted men, and reflects credit alike upon the com- 
mand and themselves, by their endeavors to aid in the ser- 
vice. Services are held every Sabbath at 10.45 A. M., and 
Evening service, at different hours, from 3 to 5.30 P, M., 
varying with the season. 

Leaving this delightful httle spot, which we are loath to do. 
and continuing our journey on foot, we come to two more 
dwelling houses on our right, the residences of the Post Chap 
lain and Assistant Surgeon. Then conies a row of buildings, 
which ^vere named, when hrst built, "The Tuileries," on ac- 
count it is supposed, of their being the handsomest buildings 
in the Fort at the time. Immediately in rear of these quar- 
ters, is a small alley- way running between them and two 
other Officers' quarters, and dubbed, in the parlance of the 
Garrison "Ghost Alley.'" Why this name, is involved in mys- 
tery. The most plausible explanation perhaps, is, that uniil 
lately, no lights were placed here, and as darkness invariably 
associates itself with ghosts and ghost stories, it is a natural 
supposition, that it thus arose. Lights have been recently 
placed at each end, and the significance of the name, if it ever 
possessed any, will doubtless pass away. 

We have now reached the southwest postern gate com- 
monly called "No. 2." This entrance is largely used by the 
guests of the Hygeia Hotel, and the Officers of the Garrison. 
It is closed to Enlisted Men and strangers (except Officers' 
guests) after "Retreat," which is at sunset. Commencing at 
"No. 2," we have a line of casemated quarters ; they are case- 
mates for guns w^hich w^ould form the Flank Defence of the 
Fort, and have been ceiled and floored, and made into com- 
fortable and convenient dwellings. In case of necessity, how- 
ever, they could be quickly metamorphosed into an armed 
battery, whence the iron mouthed "dogs of war," could belch 
forth their iron hail, carrying destruction and ruin to an op- 



-S5 - 

po>iii,Lr eiiotny. Tlioy arc' tcTiiied rospcu-tlvely, First, Second 
and Third Pront^;. First and Second Fronts, are used by the 
Officers, while Third Front is used principally l^y enlisted 
)ne!i. First Front must ever he rneniorable, in the history of 
Port Monroe, since it was the scene of the incarceration of 
.h^Herson C. Davis, President of the Southern Confederacy. 
"On the 19th, of May, 1865, the William P. Clyde, dropped 
anchor in Hampton Roads, and the news quickly spread on 
shore, that she had on board, several State prisoners, viz., 
Jefferson Davis, President of the Confederacy and his family ; 
Alexander H. Stephens, Vice-president; John N. Reagan, Post- 
master General ; Clement C. <'lay, and several others.'' 

"What will tliey do with him?" ''Wlien will they l»ring 
him ashore?" ''Guess they'll take him to Wasliiiigton and 
hang him by Military Commission?" "Gues^ you're a jack- 
ass; they can't hang him unless they hang all." 'Mrickass 
yourself; the papers say he was with the assassins in killing 
Ijincoln" " Who are the other chaps with him?" ''Will 
I hey keep him in the woman's toggery he had on when they 
caught him?" "Guess there's no truth in that." "It's just 
as true as preaching — all the papers say so." "They'll hang 
Clem Clay sure." Such was a specimen of the conversation 
going on, on siiore, concerning those on board the.CV^^/c. 

"Blacksmiths and carpenters, had been busy fittijig up 
Casemates Nos. 2 and 4, first front, near the Postern Gate, for 
the re(*eption of tlie prisoners. They were partitioned off, into 
rei'ular cells, by bricklayers ; heavy iron bars were placed a- 
cross the external embrasures, and windows opening on the in- 
terior; and the cells for the prisoners were partitioned off into 
two apartments, that next to the embrasure, being intended 
for tl e captives, while the room or cell opening on the interi- 
or of t le fort, was intended for tlieir guard." 

"On the moriU'ng of the 21st of May, some of the minor 



— 86 — 

Slr'e prisoners on board the Clyde, the Confederate General 
Wheeler and his staff, were placed on board the 3Iaumee, 
which then steamed for Fort Warren in Boston Harbor, while 
Alexander H. Stephens, ex- Postmaster Reagan, and some 
others were soon after transferred on board the gunboat Tas- 
carora, which immediately started oil" to P^ort Delaware, as 
was presumed." 

"Intense excitement, on shore and in the neighboring ves- 
sels, accompanied all these changes; but Major General Hal- 
leck, who had come down some days before to superintend 
the arrangements, would make no sign, and speculation con- 
sequently ran higher and higher every moment, as to whether 
the chief prisoner of all was destined to remain at the fort, or 
be transferred elsewhere in custody without halting." 

Speculation was rife concerning the matter, but all conjee- 
lures were at last put to rest, by the arrival of Major General 
Miles, in a special steamer from Baltimore, that officer having 
l)een assigned to the command of the Fort, Colonel Roberts, 
the Commandant, having been relieved. This was on the af- 
ternoon of May 22d. x\s soon as the officer arrived, a chain 
of sentinels was posted, to keep back the crowd, from the P]n- 
gineers Landing to tlie Postern Gate. These arrangements 
all proved that the object of all these details, the prisoner, for 
whose appearance all the crowd were on the (jui vlve, was 
about to be landed. 

The parting on board the Clyde, between Mr. Davis and his 
flimily, was affecting in the extreme, the ladies weeping very 
bitterly, as Messrs. Clay and Davis were handed over the 
ship's side, into the boat which was to convey them on shore. 
After landing, the procession was formed. Major General Hal- 
leck, and the Hon. (diaries A. Dana, Assistant Secretary of 
War. inspecting the same. Col. Pritchard, of the Michigan 
cavalry, who effected the capture, being in command of the 



-87- 

Guard, while pai^sing from the Clyde to the Fort. General 
Mile< l(Mi Hie ♦)roce^;sion, arin-iri-arni with Mr. Davis, who was 
dressed in a plain Confederate ^rey suit and slouched hat. 
looking very much wasted and haggard. 

Thus they j)assed through files of " Uncle Sam's boys,** 
IVoni the landing place, to the Postern Gate. When they 
arrived at their destination, Mr. Davis was shown into 
No. 2 Casemate, and Mr. Clay, into No. 4. ihiards were 
placed in the cells immediately contiguous thereto, Nos. i, 3 
and 5. They were ushered in, and the doors clanged behind 
them, and thus was rung the final knell, of those who had 
indulged in sucli high hopes, respecting one of the most stu- 
jjendous struggles of modern times, but whose star had set 
in darkness and despair. 

(leneral Miles showed Mr. Davis into his cell, and t]ie two 
doors leading thereinto being closed, Mr. Davis surveyed the 
premises for a few moments, and then placing his hands on 
his knees, having previously seated himself in a chair, looked 
intently at one of tlie sentinels pacing up and down, and 
bluntly asked: ''Which way does the embrasure face?" No. 
answer was made to this query. The question was re- 
peated. But again naught but silence was his answer, broken 
only by the footfalls of his guards, both within and without 
his cell. He then addressed the other sentry with the same 
words, eliciting no response whatever. '• Well, " said Mr. 
Davis, throwing up his hands and breaking into a bitter laugh, 
"I wish my men could have been taught your discipline!" 
Then rising from his chair, he paced his cell back and forth, 
«^ver and anon, looking from the embrasure, at the sentry on 
the opposite side of the moat, and then at his two silent com- 
panions. 

Who shall tell the cause of his sardonic mirth, for he was 
seldom kni)\vn to indulge in laughter. Was lie living in re- 



— 88 — 

trospect the days when, under President Pierce, his ap- 
proach to the Fort was signalized by the roar of guns 
from whose eml)rasures he now looked forth a pris- 
oner of War? Was not his. question pregnant with meaning? 
"Which way dues the embrasure IVice ? " ''To what point of 
the compass is my gaze directed?" ''Am I looking toward 
the scenes of my late ambitious hopes, the theatre of War, 
from whose flames I have marched to disaster and imprison- 
ment, or am I looking Northward, where throned in power, 
and representing the august majesty of the law, my enemies sii 
in state ? " That day wliich shall reveal all events, only can 
tell. 

The next morning, however, was to witness the most se- 
vere trial to \Uiich the proud spirit of the prisoner had yet 
been put. Perhaps no one occupying so lofty a position, has 
ever been subject to so severe an ordeal in modern times. 
On May 23rd, Jefferson Davis w^as shackled. Wliile tliis event 
was transpiring at Fort Monroe, another of a different char- 
acter, but intimately connected with the history of the pris- 
oner, w^as being enacted at Washington. The armies of the 
the Potomac, of Tennessee, and Georgia, were preparing for 
that grand review, in which two hundred thousand battle 
scarred and war bronzed veterans, were to pass in Grand Re- 
view before the President, and lay down their arms at the feet 
of the Civil Authority, and retire to the avocations of private 
life, whicli some of them left four years before at their coun- 
try's call. 

On tliat morning, Gapt. J. E. Titlow, of the 3rd Pennsyl- 
vania Artillery, Officer of the Day, entered the cell, accompa- 
nied by the post blacksmith and assistant, the latter carrying 
the shackles in his hands, whose chains clanked harshly to- 
gether. Mr. Davis. having passed a very restless night, was 
reclining on his couch, his food furnished him the previous 



-89- 

day, reiiuiinin^^ untouclu^d beside him. 

As they entered Mr. Davis arose. "Well," said he. ''J 
have a very unpleasant duty to perform, Sir," said Captain 
Titlow, and as he spoke, the blacksmith came forward with 
the shackles. As soon as the prisoner realized the situation, 
his face flushed for a moment, and then became pale and 
rigid as death. He drew^ his figure up to its full height, ap- 
parently dumbfounded with indignation, and then he seemed 
to shrink in terror from such a trying ordeal. He said : — 
"My God! You cannot have been sent to iron me ?" "Such 
are my orders, Sir," replied the officer, and he signified to the 
blacksmith, that he was awaiting the performance of his 
duty. 

"The fetters were of heavy iron, about five-eighths of an 
inch in thickness, and connected together by a chain of like 
weight." They are now believed to be in the possession of 
General Miles. 

"This is too monstrous," groaned the prisoner, "I demand, 
(Captain, that you let me see the Commanding Officer. Can 
he pretend that such shackles are required, to secure the safe 
custody of a weak old man, so guarded, and in such a fort as 
this ?" 

"It could serve no purpose," replied Captain Titlow, his 
orders are from Washington." 

"But he can telegraph," said Mr. Davis quickly ; "there 
must be some mistake. No such outrage as you threaten, is 
on record in the history of nations. Beg him to telegraph, 
and delay until he answers." 

"My orders are peremptory," said the officer, and admit of 
no delay. For your sake, let me advise you to submit with 
patience. As a soldier, Mr Davis, you know I must execute 
orders." 

"These are not orders from a soldier," shouted the prison- 

1 1 



-90 — 

er, "they are the orders of a jailor, for a hang-man, which no 
soldier wearing a sword should accept ! I tell you the world 
will ring with this disgrace. The war is over, the South is 
conquered ; I have no longer any country but America, and 
it is for the honor of America, as for my own honor and life. 
that I plead against this degradation. Kill me ! Kill me !" he 
cried, "rather than inflict on me and my people through me. 
this insult worse than death. " 

"Do your duty, blacksmith," said Captain Titlow, walking 
away, as if unwilling to witness such a painful ceremony. "It 
only gives increased pain on both sides, to protract this inter- 
view." 

The blacksmith, in obedience to his orders, attempted to 
obey them, and seeing one foot of the prisoner resting up- 
on a chair near his bed, he tried to shp one of the shackles 
on. With a strength born of frenzy, and an amount of phys- 
ical power wholly unlooked for, Mr. Davis seized the black- 
smith, and hurled him half-way across the room. 

Captain Titlow turning at this juncture, and seeing Mr. 
Davis still bent on further resistance, remonstrated with him. 
and besought him, for his own sake, not to protract matters, 
which must eventually terminate in his own discomfiture. 
"Why compel me, to add the further indignity," said he "of 
personal violence to the necessity of being ironed." 

"I am a prisoner of War," said Mr. Davis, "I have 
been a soldier in the army of America, and know how to die. 
Only kill me, and my last breath shall be a blessing on your 
head. But while I have life and strength to resist, for my- 
self and for my people, this thing shall not be done." 

The Captain then called for a sergeant and a file of soldiers, 
and the sergeant attempted to seize the prisoner. Thereupon 
Mr. Davis attempted to wrest his musket from him, when he 



— 91 — 

was immediately seized by tlie four men, and wl.en lie arose 
lie wa'^ manacled. He dropped his feel to the floor, and as the 
.•lank of the chain first sounded on his ears, he burst mto a 
viol-nt fit of weeping, and covering his face with Ins hands, 
he kept continually repeating : - "Oh, the shame ! The 

shame !'' 

. Mr Davis, in speaking afterwards, said he was never 
tempted, or at least, never sought his own hfe but once, and 
that was when he grasped the sergeant's muskef, and he 
said lie did it, hoping the men would bury their bayonets m 

him. , -, 

For tliree days, the prisoner ate scarcely anything, and the 
tare of the soldiers not agreeing with him, his medical at- 
tendant brevet Lieut. Col. John H. Craven, recommended a 
liaht diet, which was granted him, and he supped on the 
I'vening of May 26th, on toast and tea, for which he seemed 
very s^rateful. The wearing of his shackles having a very del- 
eterious effect, the Surgeon recommended their removal, and 
(kn Miles, on Sunday May 28th, ordered their removal. 

During his confinement, Mr. Davis held repeated conver- 
sations with his Surgeon, on various subjects, and freely ex- 
pressed ills views in regard to the War, and also as to some 
acts with which he was charged, such as the repudiation qf the 
xMis^issippi bonds, which he emphatically denied. 

The health of tlie prisoner fluctuated considerably, until 
the 14th of August, when he was attacked, with incipi^ent 
erysipelas, and a carbuncle on his thigh, wliic^h continued to 
..row wors€ until September ist, when Col. Craven, attri])ut- 
"n- the cause of the disease to the damp casemate, wrote a let- 
ter to Gen. Miles, requesting his removal to more comtortable 
(luarters The rooms in the second story of the south end 
nf Carroll Hall, were selected as the place best suited for the 
purpose. 



— 92 — 

This building had been long used as officers' quarters, and 
nearly every officer of the old army was quartered here, after 
leaving West Point. Rumor hath it, that both Grant and 
Sherman occupied these same rooms, before the imprison- 
ment of Mr. Davis there. 

Two rooms were used, as in the casemate prison. — 
Through a grated door connecting the two rooms, a constant 
view of the inner room could be obtained, and his guard, 
consisting of a Lieutenant and two soldiers, were stationed in 
the outer room, and kept a vigilant watch over his every 
movement, to prevent any attempt at suicide. Opposite the 
grated door was a fireplace. On the right was a heavily 
grated window, and a sentry continually paced up and down 
in front of it. Opposite this window was a door leading into 
tlie corridor, and here a sliding panel had been tixed, and 
the door heavily barred, and a sentry continually kept his face 
pressed there, to report the slightest effort on the part of 
the prisoner to attempt self destruction. The piazza was ex- 
tended, and a flight of steps placed there, so that the prisoner 
could mount the ramparts, without descending to the ground 
floor. 

On October 5th he removed to Carroll Hall, and was allow- 
ed every day to walk for an hour on the ramparts. Mr. Davis 
suffered much inconvenience, from the morbid curiosity of 
those, who, visiting the Fort seemed, to regard him as a novel- 
ty, at which they were at perfect liberty to gaze, and specu- 
late concerning. Mr. Davis tried to rebuke this lack of good 
breeding, by turning abruptly to his cell, but without avail. 
After being confined at Carroll Hall about eight months, 
under the closest surveillance, not being allowed to walk on 
the ramparts, without the Officer of the Day, Sergeant of the 
Guard, and a file of the Guard, in attendance, the prisoner 



I 



— 93 — 

was granted a parole, which allowed him the limits of the 
Garrison. His lamily having arrived, in the meantime, three 
casemates in Second Front, immediately Facing the Engine 
House, w^ere occupied hy him and his loved ones. He was 
allowed the liberty of the Fort, but orders were issued to the 
effect, that if he attempted to pass out at any of the entrances, 
to halt him, and if he refused to obey, to shoot him on the 
spot. Things remained in this condition, concerning Mr. 
Davis, until the fall of 1866, when he was taken to Richmond, 
and brought before the United States District Court, on a 
charge of treason. 

He was released on bail, three prominent Northern men. 
Horace Greely being one, becoming his bondsmen. The 
matter was never brought to trial, and the affair was quashed. 
Mr. Davis refused to take the "Iron Glad Oath" of allegiance, 
and was disfranchised, and to-da\ he stands, an anomaly in 
the history of the world, a man without a country, and with- 
out a precedent. 

He is now living in Mississippi, and recently, just previous 
to the opening of the New Orleans Exposition, while trans- 
porting the old "Independence Bell," from Philadelphia to 
New Orleans, those having it in charge, stopped at Mr. 
Davis's place of residence, and he delivered quite a speech, 
appropriate to the subject and occasion. 

Thus we leave him. In his moments of reverie, when he 
dwells upon the pictures of the past, if remorse mingles with 
his retrospect, who would wonder ? His errors in judgment, 
or his intentional treason, it is not our province, to either 
condone or condemn. To his own conscience, and his God, 
must be left the solving of the problem. 

Carroll Hall, the place of his imprisonment, is approached 
by a brick walk, branching off from the walk leading past 
the Hospital, and is used, exclusively, for Officers' quarters. 



— 94 — 

Returning to first front, and continuing our tour of sight- 
seeing, at its terminus, we see the Officers' Club Room, fitted 
up for the accommodation and pleasure of the Officers of the 
Post. Here may be found Billiard and Pool Tables, a fine 
Bar, and all the accompaniments of a first-class Club Room. 
Second front, next greets us, and when we arrive at its end, 
we see the Post Bakery, fitted up and occupying two case- 
mates. Here all the bread consumed by the Garrison, is 
made by enlisted men, and many citizens avail themselves of 
the privilege granted them, and purchase their bread here 
also. Those who have partaken of it, can testify to its good 
quality. 

On the other side of the "ramps,'' is the ''Sutler Store," 
which is presided over by Wm. Baulch, Post Trader, whose 
able management, provides the Enlisted Men of the Garrison, 
with everything -which a soldier can possibly need, froq,i 
'^boots to hat." 

Third front, is the next object we meet, which is flanked 
at each end, by two small magazines. There are also two 
small magazines at each end of second front, all about the 
same size. The largest magazine in the Garrison, lies on the 
left of Carroll Hall, and one other is situated in the group of 
buildings known as the Post "Commissary." These build- 
ings were formerly the property of the Ordnance Department, 
but when the Arsenal was removed outside of the Fort, these 
were turned over to the Post, with the rest of the buildings be- 
longing to the same Department, and have since been used 
for the purpose above specified. They are situated in the 
northeastern portion of the Fort, and lie on the right of the 
North Gate. 

During our promenade, we have noticed several roadwaysi 
leading from the Main road to the ramparts. The majority 



— 95 — 

ofthese are built up what is tcrnRHl, the - iuterior slope- 
while two others, the one at the Sutler Store, and the other 
leadin- iVoni the main road ,between First an I Second fronts, 
to the flag staff, stand out in bold relief, with their capstones 
•irranged as steps. These are so built, to break the jouits of 
the masonry, which would be weakened, if built in any oth- 
er manner. These roadways are termed " ramps,' and lead 
from the road to what is termed the ferrcpleln, upon which 
the guns are mounted. 

We will ascend the one leading from the " Sutler, Store, 
and we fmd ourselves in the South Bastion, which is the cen- 
tral one on the southeast side of the Fort; this curtain, as 
has already been stated, being longer than any other. Here 
will be found mounted, one 15'' Centre Pintle Cxun, improved 
pattern, with compressed air cylinders; the old model gun of 
this calibre, is run Wn battery,'^ and ''from batteiT," by means 
of handspikes, whereas, in the new model, the gun, when the 
axle is unkeved, will run '' in battery " automatically. 

Turning to our left we come to what is termed the South- 
(>ast Bastion, where are mounted Parrott Guns and one 15'' 
Centre Pintle of the "old model," which was the first ever man- 
ufactured, and it was named the -Lincoln Gun,'' after President 
Lincoln. Here will be found 8'^ "Converted Rifles,'' so call 
(^d because they are made by boring out ordinary 10'^ Smooth 
Bore guns and inserting a double lining tube of coiled 
wrought-iron. The tube is secured from working out by a 
muzzle collar, screwed in at the face of the piece, and from 
turning, by a steelpin tapped through the casing. 

While taking our promenade on the fcrrcplcin, we have 
noticed a large majority of the unused platforms, are of -brick 
with stone facings. These were built in the days of the old 
wooden carriages, and are now useless. In time they will 
superseded by platforms suited fcr heavy guns. Immediate- 



-96- 

ly in rear of the Commissary Buildings, is the Northeast 
Bastion. 

At the other end of the curtain, is the Northwest Bastion, 
which lies immediately in rear of Carroll Hall. Nothing of 
importance meets the eye between this bastion and the next 
one, which is the Southwest Bastion. The platforms for 
guns, commence from this point to be numbered, the platform 
for the C. P. 15'' being No. i. 

The only Bastion now remaining, is the Flag-staff Bastion, 
from vvhich the morning and evening gun is fired. 

From the terreplein^ we will ascend to the crest of the ram- 
parts themselves, and enjoy an unobstructed view of the Roads 
and Bay. From the crest to the scarp wall, is termed the ''ex- 
terior slope," while from the terreplein to the road, is named 
the "interior slope. The outside wall of the ditch is termed, 
the counter-s(tarp. 

Looking from the ramparts to the other side of the moat, 
we notice it is divided into three parts, viz., from the south- 
ern end of the Water Battery to the Northwest Bastion, an 
easy slope extends, which is termed the glacis, and is protect- 
ed, by the guns from the fort proper. Then commences, 
what is termed, the "Covered Way," a wall, a little more 
than breast high, which is intended as a cover and protection 
for troops, when, failing back from the outworks, they seek 
the protection of the fort, and extends to the northern end 
of the Water Battery. The Water Battery itself, forms the 
third part, and we will now describe it. 

Taking our way through the East Gate, immediately in front 
of the Commandant's dwelling, we enter the Water Battery, 

The next point of interest, is the "Place of Arms," a recess, 
in which troops could be sheltered and secreted, to repel an 
attack form land forces, and, with the Redoubt, frcm the out- 
works of the Fort. 



— 97 



Oil tlie Parade ground of the Fort, we have, to the ri^ht 
of the Main Walk, as we face Headquarters, the Siege Bat- 
\vv\ Park, tt contains Siege Guns and a Siege Howitzer. 

On tlie left of the Main Walk, we have the Light Battery 
Pnrk which contains four 3 inch Rifles, and two brass twelve 
pounders or Napoleon guns. In the rear of the pieces them- 
selves, between them and their caissons, is a xMortar Battery, 
consisting of four 8'' Siege Mortars. 

The 3-inch Rifle, was adopted in 1861. It is made of wrought 
iron, by wrapping boiler iron round an iron bar, so as to form 
a cylindrical mass, which is brought to a welding heat, and 
l,assed through rollers, so as to unite it solidly : the trunnions 
are afterwards welded on, and the piece is bored and turned 
1(1 its proper size and shape. 

Tlie Mitrailleur or Gatling guns, were adopted in 1 868 : 
tlK'V are made of steel, some of the smaller parts being brass. 
The Lwelve-pounder, or Napoleon gun, adopted in 1857, is stih 
ill use in the United States service, though abandoned by all 
utlier nations. It is cast in gun-metal, or bronze, which con- 
sists of ninety parts of copper and ten of tin, allowing a varia- 
tion of one part more or less. 

The charges are contained in cartridge-bags, made of woolen 
material, of sufficiently close texture to prevent the powder 
from sifting through, the size varying \vith the charge. Mitrail- 
leur ammunition, is put up in metallic cases ; it is primed, fixed 
and ready for use. 

Rifle projectiles are designated by the diameter of the l)ore 
of the piece in which they are used; their shape is oblong ; 
th(^y are not attached to their cartridge. Smooth-bore pro- 
jectiles, are designated by the weight in pounds of the solid- 
shot of the same diameter ; their shape is spherical, with the 
exception of canister, which is cyliudiical in form : they are 



— 9^ — 

fixed or attached to their cartridges by wooden disks called 
sabots. 

A projectile and its cartridge, constitute a round of cunniu- 
nition. The projectiles used in light batteries, are shell, case- 
shot, canister, and solid-shot. 

A shell is a hollow, cast-iron projectile, made strong 
enough to penetrate earthworks, wooden buildings, etc, 
without breaking ; it is loaded with a bursting charge of riile 
or musket powder, which gives great force to the fragment?. 
Fire is communicated to the charge by means of a fuse, in- 
serted in the hole by which the shell is loaded ; it is divided 
into seconds, and the time of the explosion, is regulated ac- 
cordingly. 

A case-shot is a hollow, cast-iron projectile, filled with 
musket-balls, and with thinner walls than those of the shell. 
A tube is inserted in the fuse-hole, the balls are introduce d, 
and melted sulphur or rosin is poured in to fill up the inter- 
stices, and keep the balls in position ; after this has solidified, 
the tube is withdrawn, leaving a vacant space for the charge, 
which is only large enough to burst the case, and dis- 
perse the contents. Fire is communicated to the charge, in 
the same manner as prescribed for a shell. 

A canister shot consists of a hollow cylinder, filled witli 
cast-iron or lead balls, which vary in size and number with 
the calibre and kind of * pieces ; the cylinder is closed at the 
bottom by a thick cast-iron plate, and at the top by one of 
sheet-iron. A canister shot for the three-inch Rifle contains 
from one hundred to one hundred and fifty balls ; that for 
the twelve-pounder, twenty-seven balls ; the interstices be- 
tween the balls are filled with sawdust. Canister shot for 
rifled guns, has an expanding metallic sabot or cuff. 

A solid-shot is made of cast-iron. 

There are four principal kinds of projectiles used with the 



I 



— 99 — 

3-iiicli Hiilo, viz., the Ilotchki.ss.ihe slicll of wliich weighs 8.5 
lbs., and requires a charge of 3 oz., cf cannon powder ; the 
case sliot weighs 9 lbs., contains 24 ])al!s, and requires a 
bursting charge of i oz. of cannon powder ; the canister 
weighs 7.5 lbs., and the solid shot 10 lbs.; the Ordnanee pro- 
jerril(\ the shell of which weighs 7.5 lbs., requiring 10 oz. of 
powder to fill it ; the case shot weighiug 10.5 lbs., containing 
49 balls with a bursting charge of i oz. of powder, and the 
canister weighing 10 lbs.; the Absterdam projectile, the shell 
of which weighs 10.5 lbs, and requires 8 oz., of powder to 
fill it ; tiie case-shot weighing 1 1.62 lbs., containing 58 balls 
an.l requiring a bursting charge of 2 oz. of powder, and the 
solid shot weighing 9.5 lbs.; the Eureka projectile, the shell 
of which weighs 9 lbs. requiring 8 oz. of powder to fill it, and 
the case-shot weighing 11. 6 lbs., containing 42 balls, and re- 
( [Hiring a bursting charge of i oz. of powder. The shell for 
the Napoleon gun, weighs 9.52 lbs., and requires 8 oz. ot 
po vder to fill it; the case-shot wt-ighs 12.17 lbs., contains 
/6 balls, and requires a bursting charge of i oz. of powder ; 
the canister weighs 14.80 lbs., and the solid shot weighs 
, 2.75 lbs. 

t.oft of the Main Walk leading from the Barracks to the 
Sutler Store," and just hefore reaching it, we see a triangu- 
lar shaped piece of ground, which is termed "Trophy Park" 
and contains .interesting souvenirs of Conwallis's surrender at 
Vorktown, in 1781. The three angles are occupied by three 
10" Siege Mortars, each flanked by triangular piles of Mortar 
Shells. In the centre of the Park is a brass Mortar, which 
was originally used for firing stone, by having them placed in 
a basket prepared for the purpose. Its use was long since 
abolished. Surrounding this, on all sides, are rows of 10" 
Mortar Shells, and above these, a row of projectiles for the 
8" Rille. The trophies consist of 3 Howitzers, manufactured 



— IOC — 

respectively in 1829, 1740 cuid 1677: oacli having two haiKiles, 
the handles of tv^''o of them being dolphins, and the third plain ; 
two Siege pieces, manufactured respectively in 1759 and 1767 
the first named bearing a Coat- of-Arms, and the following 
inscription; — "The Right Hon. George Sackvihe, Lt. Gener- 
al, and the rest, of the iirincipal officers in His Majesty's Ord- 
nance," and each having the dolphin handles, before referred 
to ; two field pieces, one about 3 inches, and the other 4 inches, 
in diameter. In addition to the insciption already referred to, 
each trophy has the English Goat-of-Arms and the follow- 
ing: — " Surrendered at the Capitulation of Yorktown, Oct. 
19th, 1 78 1." 

In addition to tliese. there is also a breech-loading Chinese 
gun, which was know'n in Chinese vernacular, as a "Breech- 
loading W[dl Piece. " It bears the following inscription in the 
Chinese language: — " 19th year. 2nd Moon, of the Chinese 
Emperor, King Hi. A. D. 1681.'' The gun also bears the 
names of high Military Officials, that of the Superintendent of 
Casting, two subordinate Superiors, and of the Master Work- 
man. This gun was captured from the Coreans, by the U. S. 
Naval Squadron, commanded l^y Rear- Admiral Jno. Rogers, 
U. S. Navy, and was presented to the Museum of the " U. S. 
Artillery School," by Major Wallace F. Randolph, 5th U. S. 
Artillery. 

We have completed our tour of the Fort, having exhausted 
the interesting features. Its Garrison is composed at pres- 
ent, of five batteries, "A" of the 3rd, "K" of the 2nd, "I" of 
the 4th, "C" of the 5th, and "G" of the ist, Regiments of 
United States Artillery. Battery "A" is commanded by Capt. 
James Chester, Battery "K" is commanded by brevet Major 
John H. Calef, Battery "I" is commanded by brevet Major J. 
B. Campbell, Battery "C" is commanded by Capt. Chas. 



Ol — 



Morris, and Flattery "ii;' is coiiiiiianded by Capt. James M. 
Ingalls. 

The Stall* of the Coiiimaiidaiit l)revet Brigadier-General Jno. 
C. Tidl)all is composed of the following Oflicers, Major L. L. 
Livingston 4th U. S. Artillery, xMajor Rich. Lodor, 3rd U. S. 
Artillery, Sm^geon, Joseph C. Bailey, Med. Dep't. U. S. A., 
Assistant Surgeon Stephen G. Cowdrey, Rev. Osgood E. Her- 
rick Post Chaplain, Captain D. D. Wheeler, Q. M. Depart- 
ment, Captain C. A. Alligood Military Storekeeper, and Cap- 
tain Frank E. Nye C. S. U. S. Army, The Fort Monroe Ar- 
senal is commanded by Lawrence S. Babbitt, Major of Ord- 
nance. 

TliL' batteries are supposed to number 48 men strong, in- 
cluding the Non-commisiom^d Officers, of which there are 9 
to each, ist Sergeant. 4 duly Sergeants, and 4 Corporals. 
A daily detail is made, from Headquarters, of a pro rata pro- 
poriion of each battery, for tlie Post Guard, which is mounted 
very morning, the signal being sounded at 8:30 A. M. It is 
a i. autiful and interesting ceremony. These details are made 
()!! :i basis derived from a daily report of each battery, termed 
"The Ah)rning Report.'' which is signed by the Commanding 
Officer of the battery, and taken l)y the First Sergeant, wdio 
;ils() signs it, to Headquarters. These books nmst be present- 
,mI by 8 A. M., and the details are then inade by the Post 
Scrgcant-Major for the nexi day. 

Drill occurs in the aflernoon of each day, except Saturday 
and Sunday, the signal being sounded at from 2:30 to 4.30 P. 
M., varying with the season. It lasts an hour and three- 
quaiters, and consists of Heavy Artillery, Light Artillery, and 
Battalion Drills, and Target Practice with small arms. In 
the Sunnner season, all the Artillery Target Practice of the 
l>()st takes place, undei- tlu' supervision of the Officers of the 



I02 — 



Cllass. Each of the Departments is under the supervision of 
an Instructor. 

The Course of Instruction comprises two years, so that 
every two years, a new class arrives at the Post. Two First 
and two Second Lieutenants, to each company or battery, 
making twenty in all, compose the Glass. Sometimes an In- 
fantry, Cavalry or Marine Officer, is numbered among them. 

There is a Dress Parade every evening, except Saturday, at 
sunset, Weekly Inspection, every Sunday Morning, at 8:30 A. 
M. by the Captains, and a Monthly Inspection, by the Com- 
manding Officer, on the last day of every month. 

Having thus far conducted our readers, we will leave them 
hoping they have enjoyed the tour, and derived some useful 
inCnrmation therefrom. 

THE END. 



GALL AT 



KIMBEMLl 



OPrOSlTE THE IIYGELV HOTEL 



FOR YOUR 



Stationaf>^y, 

Fancy pooDS, 

Toilet ^^r^ticles, 

pRUGS. <^c. 



: O : 



ilUGLERS CANDY PUESH DAILY 



ILAJRCIE ASSOMTMEHT t)F 



I^EASIDE. 



f^RANKLIN ^SqUAI^E, 
AND OTHER 



ILlBRARIES. 

ALSO ALL THE 

LE.VDINCx DAILY PAPERS AND PERIODICALS. 

A complPle line of Dry (Joods, Fancy Groceries, i'orei,Li;ii and 

Domestic Fruits, &c., &c. 

GUIDE BOOK TO OLD POINTCOM^ORT AND VICINITY. 



THE HYGEIA HOTEL, OLD POINT COMFORT VIRGINIA] 



o 



Old Point Comfort was the name given by Cajit. John Smitn, the tempest 
tossed mariner of the seventeenth-century, to that point of land which jni- 
into the broad and pleasant waters of the long-sought harbor of Maiufiton 
Roads. Sinated in latitude 37 degrees, it escapes the rigors of a more north 
erly climate. Its temperature during the coldest weatlier rarely falls below 
42 degrees. In summer it preserves a temperature mean between 60 and M^ 
degrees. Since 1817 it has been a military post, and sanitar}^ records kepr 
with absolute fidelity show that during a term of fifty years not a single cas*- 
of malarial, t^'phus or scarlet Tever nor di]dithHria, has originated on the 
Point. So close to the shore that the cbiNdv is fanned by the breeze, and the 
music of the waves lull the w.'\».rv trav^d^r to reoose, rises the tall-towered. 







.-pffrrisoflipjiffeios- 

B''f.tpri€tcrr-: ' 



many-wmdowed Hygeia, the queen of health and pb-a-ure resorts on the 
North Atlantic coast. It stretches its leviathan length a quarter of a mile 
along the white beach. Its six hundred rooms are luxuriantly furnished with 
all modern conveniences — gas, electric bells and oral annunciators, Prussian 
Turkish. Roman, electric, thermo-electric, hot and cold sea baths, and the 
most perfect system of drainage to be found in any hotel in this country' . 
The wide verandas, 15,000 square feet of which are encased in glasss, afford 
delightful promenades and sun baths for the invalid. A spacious ball-room 
is reserved for dancing, with an excellent military band in nightly atten- 
dance- The table is unsurpassed. 

The visitors include residents of all parts o!' the United States and Canada, 
and the register last 3^ear held the most distinguished nameson the roll ol' 
their citizens, comprising representatives from Manitoba, on the north, tc- 
British Hondurons, on the south, and from California to the Atlantic Ocoan. 



EST.VBMSllEl) ■ ^^^'' 

3. A. WATEIIS, 

AMY km NAYY SUPPLIES, 

TEAS, WINES, CONDIMENTS, 
&c., &c. 

Hampton Roads, 
OLD POINT COMFORT, VIRGINIA. 



WATKIN'S 




Old Point Comfort, Virginia. 



) 




BERIiNE 



BREV^ING CO, 

ALE, PORTER, AND LAQER BEER, 

PlIILADELPAIA, PA. 



o: 



ISrORFOLK, VtV., depot. 

mm m ice mm, 

MJBISOJV ST., 

Near Clyde JLine ^^^harves. 
F. W. ADAMS, Manager. 



:o: 



R. MASSENBURa Agent, 



iVl, ^ I\. 



jC^s. SMi 






'W^ V ^ 



•",>:^Nl 



WlIOLi:SALK INDRETVIL 

CLOTHIERS, MERCHANT TAIL0R8, 

AND 
164 MAIN STREET, NORFOLK, VA. 



F. W. SEABUPtY'S SONS, 

162 MAIN ST.. NORFOLK, VA. 
Shoes, Trunks and Traveiin*!; Ba<!;s. First (Tass Work. Shoes 

Made to Order. 
ORDEKS PROMPTLY FILLED. 

ESTABLISHED 1837. 



BABIES' HOTEL 



HAMPTON, VIRGINIA 

Open all (ho Voar. Ca])a('ity 100 Clui\sts. 

TERMS $2.00 AND $2.50 PER DAY, 



J, J. BAKjYES. Prop. 



AVAR MEMORIES 



OW 



FOET MONROE AND VICINITY. 



pONTAlNING AN AcCOUNT OF THE M.EMORABLE 

Battle ^etween the "yVLERRiMAc" and 

"Monitor," the Tncai\cef\ation of 

jJeffei^son C. Pavis, and Qther 

Topics of |ntei\est poN- 

""^ CERNING THE "pOI^T AND 

fi E I G H B O R H O O D . 



HY — 

H. K. W. PATTERSON, 

Si;iu;ka.\"I' Ha'itf.hy "A" Tiiihu Ai;tillkhy 



POOL i^- DEl^SCHl.K. 

PUBLISHERS. 

I-'OKT MONROK. VlR(.IM.\. 

1885. 



E 



C7^ 



/ .7' ^ 



^i 



